Re: Plant labels?
- Subject: Re: Plant labels?
- From: R* F* D*
- Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 01:51:19 -0400 (EDT)
At 01:25 PM 5/3/2001 -0600, you wrote:
> I have fought the label battle for thirty years. The
>only permanent label marker I have found is India Ink
>applied with an old fashioned "quill" pen. Remember the
>wooden pens with the nibs that you push in. Go to your art
>store and you will find them, probably related to
>calligraphy. But don't use calligraphy nibs.
> I have tried the dymo labels. They work for awhile and
>then you will find them on the floor after the glue fails
>due to the sunlight.
> I think I have tried every ink I could think of and
>they all fail.
> I have tried making two labels and then glued them
>together on one end with the hope that when the outer label
>fades I can still read the second one and restore the first
>one. Alas in time the second label also fades.
> Yes, I bought a label grinding machine for $600 from a
>Trophy Man who had converted to the computerized version.
>It's great but very time consuming. The labels will last
>forever.
> That's my experience. You takes your choice!! --Chas--
I use Pylon labels (standard white PVC) with a laserjet-printed PVC label
pasted to it. These come from Economy labels and look a lot like the Avery
Laser labels. The peel-offs are not paper, but a polyvinyl chloride film
with an aggressive glue. The nice feature is that the laser process uses a
toner, really a finely powdered plastic, and the printer fuses this toner to
the surface. You wind up with plastic type fused to plastic, and it seems
to last at least 5 years.
The sheets I get come in boxes of 1000 labels (LPS1225SWH), a 3 x 8 array
(24) on each page. I subdivide to 3 columns of 16 rows and use a cutting
board to split the individual labels into two halves. I can get a lot on
info on these labels, and I don't have to deciper my handwriting.
If you have WordPerfect, MS Word, or the Avery label programs, you can
custom design the sheet any way you like, and allow for feeding offsets. It
is necessary to use a laser printer with a straight path, especially on the
input end, since the labels are set on thick stock, the better to absorb the
heat from the fusing process. I do all my plants for my back yard nursery
this way.
I can give more details to anyone if they want.
I also use pencils on aluminum labels. Instead of old #2, I have Eberhard
Faber EBONY jet black extra smooth (#6325), used to mark those optical
scanner tests. Other pencils used are true lead pencils, used by milling
machine workers to make marks on metals prior to cutting.
For high-end use, try
Precision Design Systems, Inc. 716-426-4500
100 Elmgrove Park Fax 716-426-4439
Rochester, NY 14624
Custom made aluminum rock garden signs $0.95 ea
Economy Label Company 800-874-4465
P. O. Box 96893
Chicago, IL 60693
http://www.economylabel.com/home.html
515 Carswell Avenue 800-205-7611
Holly Hill, FL 32117 Fax 973-455-7148
LPS1225SWH $36.56 order #128884
order from:
Specialty Tag & Label 800-475-2040
Richard F. Dufresne
313 Spur Road
Greensboro, North Carolina 27406 USA
336-674-3105
World of Salvias: http://www.eclectasy.com/gallery_of_salvias/index.htm
Salvia email list: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Salvia
