Re: pruning salvias
- To: m*@ucdavis.edu
- Subject: Re: pruning salvias
- From: S* A* O*
- Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:59:59 -0800
Salvias are a very diverse genus, so it is, of course, impossible to
generalize. I use some 'rules of thumb' but experimentation with specific
types is needed to understand how they might respond.
First of all, the best time to prune almost any plant is while they are in
active growth. The only exception might be those plants which go dormant
naturally, requiring their dead top grown to be cut down to tidy them
up. But in general, from the plant's point of view, this can also be left
until the plant start to regrow from the base (though there is more of a
chance that accidental damage might be inflicted on delicate new shoots).
For persistently woody, shrubby salvias, the less you prune the
better. Occasionally a species will respond to an occasional hard pruning
(I've had some success with the California native, S. leucophylla), but
most prefer only tip pruning. Right now, with new growth just starting,
some 'tip pinching' might help make leggy shrubs more dense. Many of these
are just coming out of their summer dormancy and are looking their worst -
it just goes with the territory. Distraction to other parts of the garden
is best for this - i.e. don't plant fall showy plants adjacent to these as
you will focus more on their sad state. Or group small fall-blooming bulbs
at their bases so that this natural 'thinning' seems to have more of a
purpose. A lot of shrubby plant which are surging into growth now will be
in better shape in during their spring flowering if they are cleaned up a
bit and lightly pruned for best shape. Left alone, these might become too
floppy or poorly shaped right when they are putting on flowers - a poor
time to consider pruning. This would be a good approach for Nan's S. greggiis.
Tender or sub-tropical salvias are starting to look really bad right
now. They will not be prominent during the winter - care should be take to
ensure they get through in as good shape as they can, and leaving some
additional wood on them can help provide more 'options' during a spring
surge of growth.
Some species, such as S. leucantha, are already putting on a burst of fall
growth in for of new shoots from the base of the plant. Old stems shoulf
be cut down to be replaced by these new ones, otherwise you'll get a poor
flowering and a straggly plant. In our area, these old stems often still
have considerable flowers on them, even in November, but one needs to be
ruthless and clear them away or the whole plant will suffer next year. S.
'Waverly' and S. chiapensis are similar - both in needing this cleanup and
in still having some bloom - they respond to this fall maintenance as well.
The best way to do right by your plants is to lean how they grow for you,
in your area. Even in the SF Bay Area, salvias often grow in a variety of
different ways in our diverse microclimates and soils types.
Regards,
Sean O.
h o r t u l u s a p t u s - 'a garden suited to its purpose'
Sean A. O'Hara fax (707) 667-1173 sean.ohara@groupmail.com
710 Jean Street, Oakland, CA 94610-1459, U.S.A.