Re: Magnolia stellata


Hi Pamela,
 
I really think that this will be a challenge...but we all need challenges!
 
I do think that your location under the pines is probably the best. I would add as much organic matter to the soil and as a mulch as I could. I am wondering if part of the problem might be dehydrating winds. I am continually amazed here (Algarve, Portugal) how much damage wind can cause - and how quickly - even in good Mediterranean plants e.g. my Bay tree got a blast and has lots of browned leaves at the moment. I used to grow Magnolia stellata in my old garden in the very wet west of Ireland and a couple of years I got severe wind burn. This only stopped when other plants grew up around it to provide some shelter. So I would try and shelter it as much as possible.
 
Boa Sorte!
BrianO
----- Original Message -----
From: t*@xtra.co.nz
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: Magnolia stellata

 
Tony & Moira Ryan, Wainuiomata, New Zealand
Climate ( US Zone 9). Annual averages:-
Minimum -2°C; Maximum 28°C Rainfall 2000mm
----- Original Message -----
From: p*@re-taste.com
 
Dear Fran
I fear you are right here...much to my disappointment.  I have now put it under/near Pinus halepensis ( of which we have a lot) and the soil has come out in testing mildly acidic around 6.0 - 6.5 although we are on sandstone (tosca) here.   It has plenty of summer water, thats no problem as we have rainwater colllectors and a greywater tank.  Sooooo...what to do? The humidity is not that low, but I am sure the heat is a problem.  I will try it again for another year. Are there any particular fertilizers, mulches which might  help?
Thank so much for your input
Pamela
 
From: owner-medit-plants@ucdavis.edu [mailto:owner-medit-plants@ucdavis.edu]On Behalf Of Francisco J. de la Mota
Sent: 29 September 2007 20:53
To: Medit-Plants
Subject: Re: Magnolia stellata

Pamela,
 
If I recall well, you are in the costa Blanca in Spain. In my opinion, your climate doesn't meet many of the requirements for successfully growing Magnolia stellata, or pretty much, any magnolia (maybe grandiflora with proper summer watering and soil amendment). Leaf scorch during summer will probably happen year after year. Also, I take it your soil is rather alcaline as well. The combination of heat, low humidity and lime is probably in your magnolia's nightmares. An almond tree can have equivalent value to the magnolia (fragrant flowers on bare stems in late winter) and be much happier in your garden.
 
Fran
Miraflores de la Sierra, Spain
 
Hi Pam
I guess all gardeners have the tendency to long to grow some things which really do not suit their climate and you may yet have to admit defeat in this.
 
Here are however.a few suggestions which might help you to get reasonable growth from your Magnolia.
 
I do not think applying fertilizers to such a stressed plant would help at all. It would be like giving a  heavy feed to someone who was suffering a serious illness. The main thing you can help your shrub with is keeping  the soil not only moist but as cool as possible through summer.
 
I hope where you have sited it now not only puts it into a suitable pH, but gives it some shade through the hotter part of the day. If one has any choice in this matter the time that counts most is from midday until late afternoon, morning sun is usually more bearable.
 
Mulch, on the other hand is an absolute essential for survival. Magnolias normally grow in nature in forest situations in the shade of  larger treeswhere there is a natural mulch from leaf-fall coupled with lots of twiggy material and often larger fallen branches. Mulch has fthe power to help the soil stay both damp and cool and normally the main feeding roots of forest trees and shrubs with this protection are only a little below the surface. In this situation their main source of food is the decaying leaves and wood  and this provides a very good balanced nourishment  for them,  better than any artificial source. It has been shown that the main food supply of any natural forest is actually ramiel wood. This is any young wood less than about 7cm (3") diameter which decays on the soil surface. Such young wood has a lot of good nourishment in it and as it breaks down become available to the plants by the action of the soil-dwelling microorganisms. Such food is very gentle and will be completely safe for your "invalid". This mulch to be really useful should be spread in a ring from near the centre of th Magnolia at least to the spread of the branches.The branch spread we see above ground is echoed (often slightly exceeded) by the spread of the roots below in what is designate the root zone. This will spread yearly as the plant grows, so the width of the ring of mulched ground should regularly increase and should for preference be kept  _at least_ 10 cm deep in mulch. 
 
As to what mulch you should use. The ideal would be what we try to use here for our woody plants here, ground up tree prunings . but if you have no means of chipping wood and can't buy any ready chipped material in Spain. you can use a mix of any fallen leaves you can get (including some pine needles) with small twigs. To get your mulch  started on rotting it would help to mix in  some grass clippings or even a few green weeds (not yet seeding). This provides extra nitrogen, very useful to get things going. A word of warning though, while twiggy material may be safely piled near to the stems of your magnolia, any mushy green material should be put at least a hndspan away so that it cannot start a bark rot at the base of those stems.
 
Whether this will be enough to give you a reasonably happy plant I don't know. I would suggest you carry on for a year or two keeping up the milch and giving what shade you can manage and just see what happens.( Alternatively you could perhaps join  us here in Kiwi land where all the early Magnolias at present are resplendent in their spring blossoms !!)
 
Moira
 


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