Re: New Beds in zone 8

One of the problems with clay, since it does drain so poorly, is that when
it is amended ti tends to form "pots" that fill with water, wether it is a
shrub sized pot of 30'x70'.  I agree that organic matter is what is needed
to improve the soil (compost is easiest for me to get.)  But the bed may
need to be raised or mounded, or underground trench drains installed to keep
it from being water-logged.
-----Original Message-----
From: jaime <jknoble@warwick.net>
To: perennials@mallorn.com <perennials@mallorn.com>
Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: New Beds in zone 8


Blee811 <Blee811@aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 98-01-19 11:14:19 EST, you write:
>
> << As for ameliorating the soil, try sand on the clay parts (I know you
said
> you
>  already tried that) >>
> Be very careful with this.  I'm not a soil expert, but I do know that
> different areas have different kinds of clay.  Our clay here in Ohio tends
to
> form concrete with the addition of sand unless you apply an extremely
large
> amount.
>
> Bill Lee

Bill, you hit the proverbial nail on the head.  Most clays (and
there are many) will indeed form concrete with sand added.
After all, clay is composed of ground rock among other things.
Adding more simply makes it tighter and heavier, until you
overpower it's ability to bind; very similar to mixing too much
sand/rock into concrete.  Further, it adds absolutely nothing of
organic value.  Adding compost will be absorbed and mix into the
clay.  It will add nutrients to the soil and will attract far
more critters that will help break up the clay (e.g.,
earthworms).

When I moved here 3 autumns ago, I began to dig in earnest.  I
ambitiously desodded, tilled and began to trippple dig my large
(30 x70 ish ) perennial garden.   I discovered to my dismay that
the soil wasn't simply compacted from years of lawn and pounding
with no aeration, it was dense clay binding rock.  Eons ago,
this was a glacial river valley.  :(  There was no way I could
make sufficient compost so I bought finished, screened compost
from the county.  It is the most gorgeous stuff I've ever seen.
Rich, black.  I added approximately one cubic foot to one cubic
foot of clay I dug (less the larger rocks).  Then I let it sit
and settle for awhile (through several rains).

I planted the area and dumped another 3 or 4" of the stuff on
top as side dressing.   Most things are flourishing there.  I
add another 4" or so of compost every year in the spring.  Maybe
some in autumn if most has been absorbed.  This year I will be
(gasp) digging everything up in sections, triple digging
again and adding another load of compost.  Hopefully this will
be the last time that is necessary.

Then I began to do research on clay.  (My veggie garden is in
12" raised beds.)  I also have learned the characteristics of my
clay.  Turns out it is very much of a sandy composition; not
surprising given the river rock and history of the place.
Basically, it does not drain.  I found out subsequently we
passed the perc test because it was done over the leachfield.
:)

Anyhow, it appears that organic material only works its way down
about 4".  Any perennial needing well drained soil is not going
to appreciate this.  In fact, although I did all of the above,
in certain spots I suppose I didn't do well enough.  I lost a
bunch of delphs, foxglove and aconite there over a very wet
winter.

I'd recommend several things.  First learn all about your clay.
Wet, damp, dry. See how it does drain.  See how much is sand.
That is all very important.  Also, there are perennials that
don't much object to clay soils.  You could select some of those
initially.  If you'd like details on techniques for learning
more about your soil, let me know.  There are a bunch of simple
things you can do.

Jaime
NW NJ, zone 6/5
jknoble@warwick.net
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