Gelsemium
- Subject: Gelsemium
- From: M* D* G*
- Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 09:22:28 -0700
Gelsemium (Gelsemium)
Evergreen, perennial that grows in a twining, climbing pattern. Leaves are arranged in opposite pairs and flowers are funnel-shaped with five petals either single or in clusters. In warmer climates train over arbors or against a wall.
Genus: Gelsemium
Cultivar: N/A
Family: Loganiaceae
Common Name: Gelsemium
Category: climbers
Water: Normal to Moist
Bloomtime Range: Late Spring to Mid Summer
Hardiness Zone Range: 7 to 9
Light: Part Shade to Sun
Soil: Sandy Loam to Loam
How-tos:
Planting Vines & Climbers
Choose the planting site for your climber carefully: its long flexible stems may need some shelter, but planting right next to a wall might keep it from the sun or water it needs. Make sure that there's room for the climber to grow when it gets tall, and remember that it will grow towards the sun unless carefully trained. Be sure you will be able to manage the plant once it becomes tall, or that if it has a mind of its own, it won't become a problem.
Select a support structure before you plant your climber. Common support structures are trellises, wires, strings, or existing structures. Some plants, like ivy, climb by aerial roots and need no support. Aerial rooted climbers are fine for concrete and masonary, but should never be allowed to climb on wood. Clematis climbs by leaf stalks and the Passion flower by coiling tendrils. Akebia and Wisteria climb by twining stems in a spiral fashion around its support.
Do not use permanent ties; the plant will quickly outgrow them. Use soft, flexible ties (twist-ties work well), or even strips of pantyhose, and check them every few months. Make sure that your support structure is strong, rust-proof, and will last the life of the plant. Anchor your support structure before you plant your climber.
Dig a hole large enough for the root ball. Plant the climber at the same level it was in the container. Plant a little deeper for clematis or for grafted plants. Fill the hole with soil, firming as you, and water well. As soon as the stems are long enough to reach their support structure, gently and loosely tie them as necessary.
If planting in a container, follow the same guidelines. Plan ahead by adding a trellis to the pot, especially if the container will not be positioned where a support for the vine is not readily available. It is possible for vines and climbers to ramble on the ground or cascade over walls too. Clematis and Roses actually work quite well this way.
Pests:
Whiteflies
Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked and they can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.
Possible controls: keep weeds down, use screening in windows to keep them out, remove infested plants away from non-infested plants, use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies), trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden, and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.
Scale Insects
Scales are troublesome pests related to mealybugs that infest an enormous variety of plants. They can appear as stationary teardrop-sized lumps of brown, cream, or black on stems and leaves, or as cottony masses, but there are many variations. These visible signs are actually the adult females, which lose their legs, lay eggs, and die ... leaving the shells of their bodies to protect the eggs. When the young hatch, they crawl along the stems and leaves until they find a good feeding site, then settle down and repeat the process. Scales weaken plants by sucking sap from its tissues with their piercing mouthparts, leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) that can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.
Prevention and Control: Once established, they are hard to control-contact sprays are minimally effective since young are well protected by their shell covering for most of their lives. Isolate infested plants. Where practical, remove scale by hand and apply rubbing alcohol to the area to eliminate the eggs and young beneath. Alternatively, prune all infested branches and destroy-don't compost. Dormant oil sprays in winter are usually effective at keeping populations under control. Insecticidal sprays labeled for use against scale will only yield good results if used when the young are in the 'crawler' stage, the timing of which can be tricky at best. Finally, encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden.
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