RE: Getting Wisteria to bloom
- Subject: RE: Getting Wisteria to bloom
- From: S*@schwabe.com
- Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 9:32:20 -0700
That worked for me on an apple tree that can't not bloom for 7-11 years. I
did this at about 5 years and it worked.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stevemh@gis.net [s*@gis.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 9:29 AM
> To: perennials@mallorn.com
> Subject: Re: Getting Wisteria to bloom
> > > If all else fails, try banging on the trunk and up and down > with a hammer. Don't
> shatter the thing, but do stress it. It has worked for me. I > forget where I read
> that, but it did the trick.
> > Steve Hatch
> Marshfield, MA
> zone 6
> > > Vinata Gangolli wrote:
> > > Thanks to everybody who has contributed to this thread so > far and may be
> > doing so in the next few days. It is is good to get all > that information
> > about this plant with wonderful flowers. -- Vinata
> >
> > >From: "Christopher P. Lindsey" <lindsey@mallorn.com>
> > >Reply-To: perennials@mallorn.com
> > >To: perennials@mallorn.com
> > >Subject: Re: Getting Wisteria to bloom
> > >Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 21:33:14 -0500
> > >
> > > > ===>I've read of wisterias that have exhausted their > owners' patience by
> > > > never blooming, even in 20 years, and they fell to the > chain saw. The
> > >best
> > > > advice I've read is to buy a plant that you have seen > bloom in the
> > >nursery
> > > > with your own eyes to be sure you've got one that will > bloom. I had one
> > >for
> > > > a number of years and the root pruning didn't help, nor did the
> > > > superphosphate. I did encourage some bloom with > frequent pruning, as
> > >often
> > > > as weekly when growth was very active, to create those > spurs--that seems
> > >to
> > > > be where the flower buds form.
> > >
> > >Hi Bill,
> > >
> > > OK, this thread got me curious enough to drag out my copy of
> > >'Wisterias',
> > > by Peter Valder [1].
> > >
> > > He says
> > >
> > > "One frequently hears the complaint 'I can't get my wisteria
> > > to flower. Well there are various possible > explanations for this
> > > irksome state of affairs. Firstly, wisterias > usually do not flower
> > > when young. Three to five years may pass before > they commence.
> > > Secondly, they should be grown in full sun. Under natural
> > > conditions their growth habit ensures that they > sprawl over trees,
> > > shrubs, or rocks with their leaves in bright > light, which seems
> > > to be a requirement for the abundant development of > flower buds.
> > > Thirdly, if they are given lots of water and > fertilizer, they may
> > > devote their energy to growth rather than to the > development of
> > > flower buds so, as mentioned before, once a plant > is established
> > > it is best to do nothing to it unless it shows > signs of distress.
> > > Finally, it is most important to prune correctly as > described
> > > in the next section, as heavy pruning, particularly > late in the
> > > growing season or in winter, is likely to remove > those parts of
> > > the plant which would produce the next season's flowers.
> > >
> > > ...
> > >
> > > After planting, the season's long shoots should be > tied back in
> > > the positions desired and unwanted shoots removed > as they appear.
> > > Removal of the tips of the long shoots when they > have reached
> > > the desired length with encourage the development > of side shoots,
> > > which may then be treated similarly. Once the > plant has reached
> > > the preferred size size and shape, all new shoots > should be cut
> > > back to two or three leaves at the base, rather > than removing them
> > > altogether, as this encourages short spurs on which > many of the
> > > flower buds appear."
> > >
> > > So Bill, it sounds like you were right about the spurs!
> > >
> > >Chris
> > >
> > >hort.net plant image gallery (1562 online photos and growing!)
> > >http://www.hort.net/gallery/
> > >
> > >[1] Valder, Peter. Wisterias: A Comprehensive Guide. > Portland: Timber
> > > Press, 1995.
> > >
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