RE: perennials DIGEST V3 #142
- To: "'perennials@mallorn.com'"
- Subject: RE: perennials DIGEST V3 #142
- From: G* L*
- Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:08:45 -0700
Please take our E-Mail address of of this message.
Lois Geertz
Plant Dept Manager
> -----Original Message-----
> From: perennials-owner@mallorn.com [SMTP:perennials-owner@mallorn.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 9:01 AM
> To: perennials-digest@mallorn.com
> Subject: perennials DIGEST V3 #142
>
>
> perennials DIGEST Tuesday, May 18 1999 Volume 03 : Number
> 142
>
>
>
> In this issue:
>
> Re: Crocosmia
> Polygonum orientale question
> Re: Patience and Platycodon ?
> Re: "Death of a Gardener"
> How to scale lilies (long post!)
> Re: Questions from a mild climate gardener
> Re: Questions from a mild climate gardener
> Re: Questions from a mild climate gardener
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:06:38 -0600
> From: coneh@uswest.net
> Subject: Re: Crocosmia
>
> Keith,
> Thanks alot for the insight..Sure wish I was around when you do your
> 'shovel pruning'.. =o)
> Connie
>
> Bolt Upright wrote:
> >
> > > Hello all,
> > > I am confused with the hardiness of Crocosmia..Many catalogs including
> > > the best plant reference guides say they are(Some: Lucifer,etc)hardy
> to
> > > zone 6 with wind shelter and mulch.
> > > Would some of you which have grown these sucessfully for several years
> > > (in at least zone 6) advise us what you have done to assure their
> > > success.??
> >
> > Well, I'm confused by all the confusion about this plant. I've had it
> for
> > 6 years, here in zone 5, Western New York, and I don't do anything
> special,
> > at all. All my beds are mulched, but I don't make any gallant efforts
> for
> > Crocosmia. In fact, I've got two different varieties, 'Lucifer', and
> some
> > orange, dwarf number that was supposed to be apricot. I'm "allergic" to
> > orange, so it's gonna' get shovel-pruned when I get to it.
> >
> > Keith
> >
> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:32:55 -0700
> From: Vicki DeBoer <wannadanc@olywa.net>
> Subject: Polygonum orientale question
>
> >You bet! Kiss-me-over-the-garden gate is an annual here in zone 7. We
> grew
> >this from seed last year, and by the end of the summer it had become like
> a
> >shrub, about 6' tall and 3-4' around. Bloomed all summer until frost and
> had
> >the most beautiful graceful pink blooms you can imagine. A prized plant
> as
> >far as I am concerned!
> >
>
> OK folks - I searched the web, found a great picture, (it is attractive)
> and now I have to ask: Here in WA state, we have an EXTREMELY invasive
> Polygonum cuspidatum - the Japanese knotweed - and while it has its
> moments
> of splendor, it takes over like kudzu must in other parts of the world and
> it leaves a horrendous mess as it stages its rampage. Any danger of P.
> orientale behaving in such a manner?
>
> Thanks
>
> Vicki
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:14:25 -0400
> From: "GeneBush" <genebush@otherside.com>
> Subject: Re: Patience and Platycodon ?
>
> Hello Craig,
> The book you are looking at does not give the whole story in photos.
> While
> there is only one species of Platycodon there are countless variations on
> a
> theme. Many colors from blue to pink to white to lavender and purple.
> Sizes
> can range from only 6 inches to 4 feet. There are also double blooms to
> choose from. Many named strains to choose from. You may want to take a
> look
> at my web site in the newsletter section on Platycodon. It is a past
> article with a couple of illustrations. Gives a hint or two on their
> beauty. I am especially fond of the dwarfs myself.
> Incidentally, they are all well up here and approaching mature
> height on
> many in the garden.
> Gene Bush Southern Indiana Zone 6a Munchkin Nursery
> around the woods - around the world
> genebush@otherside.com http://www.munchkinnursery.com
>
> - ----------
> > From: Craig.Wallace@emotors.com
> > To: perennials@mallorn.com
> > Subject: RE: Patience and Platycodon ?
> > Date: Monday, May 17, 1999 1:01 PM
> >
> > Hello again, Barb.
> >
> > According to my Sunset "Annuals & Perennials" book, "...stems die in
> autumn
> > and new growth appears quite late the next year; mark a plant's location
> to
> > avoid damaging it before it makes its appearance. This is a deep-rooted
> > "permanent" plant, unless gophers, who consider is a delicacy, get to
> it."
> >
> > The picture in the book shows all of the buds to be white with the
> > lavender/purple stripes. Seems as though it would be typical of
> Platycodon
> > grandiflorus.
> >
> > Craig Wallace
> > craig.wallace@emotors.com
> > Brighton, Illinois
> > Zone 5 (old zone)
> >
> > "I love spring anywhere, but if I could choose, I would always greet it
> in a
> > garden." -Ruth Stout
> >
> >
> > > ----------
> > > From: WHTROS@aol.com[SMTP:WHTROS@aol.com]
> > > Reply To: perennials@mallorn.com
> > > Sent: Saturday, May 15, 1999 11:23 PM
> > > To: perennials@mallorn.com
> > > Subject: Re: Patience and Platycodon ?
> > >
> > > Good evening --
> > > Been reading my backlog of e-mail.
> > > Too tired and sore to do much else, sorry to say.
> > > I've been enjoying the beautiful weather and a couple days off too
> much!
> > > As if that were possible!
> > > But those 40# bags of top soil get heavier every year!
> > > Seems like I used to be able to carry 2 bags at a time, although not
> far.
> > >
> > > Now for my "Question of the Day?"
> > > 2 years ago, I bought a Balloon flower that was supposed to be white
> but
> > > had
> > > lavender/purple stripes. Last year, the neighbors dog scratched off
> the
> > > top
> > > growth shortly after it emerged. I think it regrew somewhat but not
> much.
> > > Now I am wondering if it will come back this year. So far, no signs
> > >
> > > of life. Do any of you think it will come back? Is it too soon for
> it
> to
> > >
> > > come up yet? Seems like it was very late last year.
> > > Hate to give up on it. I've been "dying" to know if it will come
> > > back with the same color variation!!
> > >
> > > TIA and Best Wishes to you all --
> > > Have a cup of coffee on me & a few roses to brighten your day!
> > > §
> > > [_]D
> > >
> > > Barb
> > > USDA Zone 5, Rock Island, IL
> > > @}-->-->---------------------
> > > @}-->-->---------------------
> > > @}-->-->---------------------
> > > @}-->-->---------------------
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:24:54 EDT
> From: WHTROS@aol.com
> Subject: Re: "Death of a Gardener"
>
> Thank you so very for the response to my Quest!
> And thank you to all of you who have responded to all my other various
> Queries.
> Thank you !
> Thank you !
> Thank you !
> Thank you !
> Thank you !
>
> Best Wishes to you all --
> Barb
> USDA Zone 5, Rock Island, IL
> "What this country needs is dirtier fingernails & cleaner minds." Will
> Rogers
> @}-->-->---------------------
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:47:36 -0400
> From: lowery@teamzeon.com
> Subject: How to scale lilies (long post!)
>
> Valerie Lowery@ZEON
> 05/18/99 10:47 AM
>
> Hi to everyone!
>
> First, let me tell Pat Mitchell that those little black things in the base
> of the leaves of the common tiger lily are bulbils -- you are right.
> Asiatics have their babies there in addition to multiplying underground.
> I
> forgot about them since we were talking orientals.
>
> Second, the method for scaling is simple. I've tried this once and it was
> successful so far. I learned from postings to the lily forum in the fall
> of 1988 and also from a gentleman who sent me a whole box full of scales
> of
> various lilies he had started; these are now in pots in my garden and are
> coming along nicely. Since all of us have probably planted our lilies by
> now, below I am quoting the instructions (in part) on how to scale a lily
> in-ground in the fall (it's too late in the spring for most of us) as they
> were sent to me from the lily forum from Dr. Gallop:
>
> Dig down carefully where the desired bulb is supposed to be, using the
> fingers, not hard tools, to find it. Gently clear away around the bulb to
> just below the basal plate region (where roots start), using a handbrush
> if
> necessary.
>
> Gently twist a few of the outer scales (these look like garlic cloves)
> sideways to break them off as close to the basal plate as possible, as
> completely straight across as possible. Do not remove more scales than
> necessary; certainly no more than one set of 6-10 around the whole bulb.
> The plant needs the food reserves in its bulb to produce the stem for next
> season.
>
> Place the specific sets of scales in a labelled styrofoam cup in a
> holding
> tray and put aside briefly until the scale-collecting job in the garden is
> done. Dust the injured regions of the mother bulb base with a fungicide
> and allow them to dry and callouse over for a few hours open to the air.
> A
> sunny day in early Spring or late fall while the plant is not in active
> growth is best for this work. Be careful not to damage the bulb while
> doing this or you may not have a lily next season. When the injured bulb
> has settled down, backfill with peat/vermiculite/pre-mixed slow and fast
> release high phosphate fertilizers (like Osmocote 14-14-14 and a lawn
> fertilizer 7-7-7) to more than cover the whole bulb.
>
> Rinse the scales in tap water and allow them to dry and callouse over,
> cup-side down, on paper towels at least for a few hours, preferably
> overnight. Drop them into zipper sandwich bags, dust them with a smidgeon
> of fungicidal dust and shake gently. Add a handful of peat/vermiculite to
> which a very small amount of warm water had been added by spraying the
> night before. Then almost close the zipper bags to ensure the necessary
> ventilation by either using bags pre-punched with a couple of holes from a
> file punch, or leave about 10% of the seal length open by jamming a sliver
> of styrofoam across the seam (otherwise the bags will seal themselves to
> possibly smother the scales and their bulblets).
>
> Place the labelled bags upright into shoe boxes and incubated at about 68F
> (like on top of a water heater). Darkness helps to suppress green growth
> in the earliest of the bulblets to wake up after vernalization in the cold
> for about 8-12 weeks or more. Moisture must condense on the colder,
> upsides of the bags during incubations, so they should be either taken out
> and shaken to redistribute it. Liquid moisture touching the
> scales/bulblets will soon rot them.
>
> After three months of warm temperatures (needed for the scales to produce
> bulbils), place your lilies into a cold area (such as an unheated garage,
> basement, or your refrigerator) for three months. The bulblets will send
> up leaves when they are brought back into warm surroundings.
>
> It is a general consensus that your young lilies should then be hardened
> off and placed in a nursery bed for the following year so that they won't
> have to compete for food/sun/water from other plants.
>
> Good luck this fall!
>
> Val in KY
> zone 6a
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:56:04 -0600
> From: Don Martinson <llmen@execpc.com>
> Subject: Re: Questions from a mild climate gardener
>
> >Hello Friends -- I often read posts from people in zones 5,6,7 etc about
> >digging up plants and storing them for the winter, and I must admit that
> it
> >amazes me.
> >Please alleviate my ignorance by explaining the process -- which plants
> do
> >you dig up and store, how do you store them, when do you put them in
> >storage and when do you take them out.
> >Thanks!
> >
> >Nan
>
> Hi Nan...
>
> Every climate has its special challenges. I'm sure many of us can
> scarcely
> imagine the water restrictions with which lots of folks in southern
> California have to deal.
>
> For those of us in the Great White North, the killer (both figuratively
> and
> literally) is the cold. No matter which zone we're in, there is always
> something that we love to have this is hardy to only 1 or 2 zones south of
> us.
>
> The most common items that get brought in for the winter (at least here in
> Wisconsin) are things such as dahlias and cannas. Their size and beauty
> are worth the work. Out into the garden in early May, where they will
> stay
> until the tops are killed by frost, then dug, cleaned and stored in a cool
> basement, another thing that many of you lack (where in the world to you
> store your junk!!!). I used to dig my callas, too, but found that I
> could
> just keep them in pots and move those in and out. I do this with many
> other things too, such as a crape myrtle, brugmansias, bomarea and some of
> my water plants (such as thalia) that I don't want to sink to the bottom
> of
> my pond in order to be protected from being frozen.
>
> I'm sure other folks have different plants that they feel are worth the
> effort of moving in and out seasonally.
>
> Don
>
> Don Martinson
> Wauwatosa, Wisconsin (Milwaukee suburb)
> USDA Zone 5 (-10 to -20F)
> AHS Heat Zone #4, Map at: (
> http://www.suite101.com/userfiles/79/hz1024.jpg )
> l*@execpc.com
>
> But list! A voice is near;
> Great Pan himself low-whispering through the reeds,
> Be thankful, thou; for if unholy deeds
> Ravage the world, tranquility is here!"
> -Wordsworth, "Water Sonnets"
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:18:34 -0800
> From: Nan Sterman <nsterman@mindsovermatter.com>
> Subject: Re: Questions from a mild climate gardener
>
> Out into the garden in early May, where they will stay
> >until the tops are killed by frost, then dug, cleaned and stored in a
> cool
> >basement, another thing that many of you lack (where in the world to you
> >store your junk!!!).
>
> I had to respond to Don's question about where we store our junk -- that's
> a great question and I have yet to figure it out. But I'll tell you, Don,
> my car has not seen the inside of the garage (which is 2 1/2 cars wide and
> an extra car length deep) in about two years. We don't have attics
> either.
> Hmm... no wonder we always feel like we are tripping over everything
> inside
> and outside!
>
> Nan
> **********
> '''''''''''''''''''''''
> Nan Sterman
> San Diego County California
> Sunset zone 24, USDA hardiness zone 10b or 11
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:14:14 -0400
> From: lowery@teamzeon.com
> Subject: Re: Questions from a mild climate gardener
>
> Valerie Lowery@ZEON
> 05/18/99 11:14 AM
>
> Nan,
>
> here in zone 6a, Louisville, KY, there are several tropical plants that I
> could not do without that I must bring in for the winter. The most
> noteworthy are my brugmansias which give the patio life in the evenings.
> I
> also have a variety of exotics from Logee's Greenhouse which are meant to
> be either greenhouse specimens or houseplants in my climate. For me, they
> are outdoor container plants until winter. These are plants you just
> can't
> buy at your local garden centers!
>
> The beloved dahlias, cannas, and gladiolus that have been mentioned by
> others become nearly indispensable in the garden. I cannot think of
> suitable replacements from any other hardy perennial or annual. Even
> though you know that these will not survive freezing temps, you grow them
> anyway and lift in the fall. In fact, this is no more strenuous than
> placing a new plant in the garden and can be rather enjoyable. It is then
> that you can see the results of your hard work when the tuber/bulb has
> multiplied or fattened appreciably.
>
> Nan, I envy your mild climate and your ability to garden year around (I
> lived in a tropical area for a few years and know how it can be!);
> however,
> I would desperately miss the brilliant fall foliage, the smooth blankets
> of
> snow, and the joyous spring that brings plants forth that require the
> winter chill.
>
>
> Val in KY
> zone 6a
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of perennials DIGEST V3 #142
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