Re: pollinating and terminating

I with you Deb, Just pollinated this morning. I am stuck with a more
football shaped youngling.
I heard they are supposed to be round and tall so I will wait to see what
happens. The bees
are going crazy too. I wonder if they are taking all of the pollen out of my
pollinating flowers.
Ohh ya, you must master the art of pumpkin hopping and no remorse vine
stomping :)

On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 12:09 AM, Debbie Runkle <yorunk13@att.net> wrote:

> Ok.  I'll let the main go another few days.  As I have mentioned before, I
> am
> growing over grass and am placing soil under the vines as they grow.  My
> main is
> now approx. 25 feet long and is moving quite rapidly across my yard.  It is
> now
> about 6' beyond the female that I pollinated.  I have kept it going in the
> event
> that the pollination did not take.  I would like to terminate soon, but
> also do
> not want to risk losing the existing pumpkin and not having one on the main
> that
> I can pollinate later as a backup.  My understanding is that the plant
> needs the
> leaves to convert energy, i.e. keeping the secondaries as long as possible.
>
> When you let your plant fill in your patch, what is your secret to walking
> around in it or between the secondaries?
>
>
> Also, do you mainly water around the stump vs. the vines?  I have approx. 6
> to 8
> inches of topsoil over clay.  That is very typical for where I live.  Let's
> say
> you rototill down 6 to 8" and then hit the clay.  Do the roots go deep
> enough to
> penetrate the clay?  Has anyone experimented auguring or using old holes
> from
> stakes as a way to water? My thought is depending on how deep the roots go,
> this
> could be a way of deep watering.  Any thoughts?
>
> Debbie
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Joe Pukos <jpukos@rochester.rr.com>
> To: pumpkins@hort.net
> Sent: Sun, July 18, 2010 12:31:30 PM
> Subject: Re: pollinating and terminating
>
> Debbie,
>
> After a week or so, the new pollinations should be giving you a good
> indication of which direction they are heading. As long as they have that
> shiny and new look, that's a good thing. If they start to look dull, that's
> bad and probably means they're not going to make it. If you are growing
> competitively, setting a fruit on the main is heavily favored over growing
> one
> on a secondary. For sure, all the biggest pumpkins in the world were grown
> on
> the main vine. I like to have my secondaries all terminated by the end of
> July. At that time, my 750 sq. ft. area for each plant is filled up.
> Sometimes
> I terminate my mains and other times, I allow them to grow around the edge
> of
> the patch for the entire season. I've had good luck doing it both ways.
>
> Joe Pukos
>
> Leicester, NY
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Debbie Runkle" <yorunk13@att.net>
> To: "pumpkin" <pumpkins@hort.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 11:59 AM
> Subject: pollinating and terminating
>
>
> >I was wondering how long before you know if a pollination is successful.
>  I
> have
> > pollinated two on my main, the first aborted (closest to stump).  The
> second
> one
> > (next on the vine from the aborted one) is slightly larger than a
> baseball.
> > There is a third one after that which was open pollination.  I am keeping
> the
> > main going since I was told that pumpkins growing on the main are better
> than
> > secondaries.  I did pollinate one on the first secondary off the main.
>  When
> > should I start terminating the main and secondaries?  I've been letting
> > everything keep growing in case something goes wrong.
> >
> > Debbie
> >
> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 02:35:00
>
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"Finding the exit without looking"

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