RE: Pumpkinguy on drip irrigation

Thanks for the info!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pumpkins@mallorn.com [o*@mallorn.com]On
> Behalf Of Pumkinguy@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 1999 3:10 PM
> To: pumpkins@mallorn.com
> Subject: Re: Pumpkinguy on drip irrigation
>
>
> In a message dated 3/16/99 12:01:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> chrisk@ci.salinas.ca.us writes:
>
> <<
>  Curious if you have any special trick for treatment of powdery mildew. I
>  live on the Central Coast of California-quite damp. I always
> have a problem
>  with it. THanks.
>
>  > -----Original Message-----
>  > From: owner-pumpkins@mallorn.com [o*@mallorn.com]On
>  > Behalf Of Stewart Deans
>  > Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 1999 2:08 AM
>  > To: pumpkins@mall >>
> Christine,
>    Dr. Meg McGrath of cornell university out on Long Island in
> New York is one
> of the foremost researchers on the problems of powdery mildew on
> vine crops.
> She came out to my patch last year.....thank God before the powdery mildew
> hit. Actually, the Atlantic Giant ( being in the C. Maxima
> family) is somewhat
> resistant to powdery mildew. I know it is hard to believe, but
> C.Pepo (regular
> field pumpkins) get it much worse. I have found that my field
> pumpkins get it
> whether it is wet or a dry year and I spray with a variety of chemicals.
> Stress seems to trigger the onset of powdery mildew somewhat. The
> stress of
> setting fruit and the plant getting older seems to be a factor. New growth
> doesn't seem to get it as bad as the older growth. I start to see powdery
> mildew in my fields around August...give or take a couple weeks.
> Some areas
> get it later than others. What I try to do is delay a major
> outbreak and allow
> the plants to mature their fruit before the mildew really sets in....the
> mildew always wins in the end , with the field pumpkins. Cornell
> and Harris
> seeds have been developing powdery mildew resistant varieties of field
> pumpkins. I dare say, it would be much easier to increase the mildew
> resistance in the AGiant for it already exhibits some resistance. Chemical
> control is subject to debate as to the chemicals used and the timing of
> sprays. Generally, you are better to protect against disease before it
> happens, however, there is a problem. There are two major strains
> of powdery
> mildew in our area and both are showing resistance to the
> available chemicals.
> It is felt by some, that Benlate and Bayleton may only be
> partially effective
> on the first application and subsequent applications may be
> ineffective. This
> is why Meg McGrath likes to scout the fields and wait until the very first
> signs of invasion...usually on the underside of the leaves. Then hit them.
> Bravo (chlorothalonil), Bayleton and Benlate are the chemicals of
> choice for
> the most part. None of them work well alone. There is a
> synergistic effect by
> using Bravo/Bayleton together. Then alternate with Bravo/Benlate the next
> week. In some states, Quadris is registered for vinecrops.....you
> don't want
> to know what that stuff costs. For the organic growers.....I'm
> not sure?????
> Maybe seaweed sprays or sulfur. A good hard spray of water on the
> leaves(not
> to the point of mechanical damage) may knock some of it off.
> Pruning to allow
> for better circulation might help....thin out the jungle. As the
> plant gets
> older, it is inevitable that some leaves will get old and ratty
> looking....you
> can prune the real bad ones out to allow room for the newer
> tertiary growth.
> No matter how well you prune, there is always some new growth
> that pops out of
> somewhere that can take up the space vacated by the old dead
> leaves. People in
> the warm climate areas seem to have more problems with the leaves
> looking old
> , early....too much stress. It seems like up North, it is easier
> to keep the
> leaves greener and in better shape for a longer period of time.Good luck
>                                                               pumkinguy
>
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