Re: Learning seed propagation techniques...

Allan-
I would not advise using non sterile mix under any circumstances
even after potting up.  I have had large number of plants succumb
to damping off even when I thought they were too big, too strong
after potting up.

I have a friend who starts her slower growing perennials in October
and they do bloom the first year due to longer growing time.
I am here in Colorado - zone 5a ish.  I would not start a full year before
-if you have to winter them over anyway, why not just  start that year
and have a bunch of non-blooming transplants wintering over in the garden-
or use 4" pots-they are too small for that long of a time period.
My friends perennials end up in at least 6" pots.

I frequently start many seeds between 2 peices of wet newspaper
on top of the fridge (constant warmth) and check them frequently
for germination-They are all transplanted in 12" X 18" flats.

These are only some ideeas-there are many others that work just as well.

Caron

Allan wrote:

> If I may, I'd like to ask for a few tips and general feedback on my
> experiments learning to propagate plants from seed...
>
> Can I probably get away using non sterile compost, potting (or garden?)
> soil, sand mixes for the growing up to save money? I'd save money just
> using bought sterile mix for the germination.
>
> It seems it would be easier to grow some slow growing perennials up for
> a year in a 4" pot and place them in the garden the 2nd year. How do you
> winter them over (Zone 4)?  In the pot, outside under a 12" layer of
> protective mulch? They'd take up less space this first year, be easier
> to water, protect from storms, keep in the cold frame.
>
> I built a little cold frame/"micro greenhouse". There's a picture at
> http://www.visi.com/~response/coldframe.jpg . Its lined with 3/4" foam
> board for insulation. I put a little electric heater with a thermostat
> in it, one of those cube things, and its staying about 70 F inside and
> the heater only running half the time on low (750 watt) so I don't think
> I'll have a big shock from the electric company bill... Uh, no pun
> intended!  The other day the temp inside with the sun out was around
> 90-100 F and it was 50 F outside. So I'm hoping next year in January,
> February when its 0-32 F outside it'll heat up to 70 F inside so the
> heat doesn't run during the day.  I could throw an old rug or blanket
> over it at night too.  I'm planning on some kind of thermostat and fan
> to ventilate automatically at a set temperature so it doesn't overheat,
> which it obviously will.  More experimenting. It'll be kind of like a
> micro-greenhouse, a greenhouse that doesn't cost $5000 (can't afford)
> and it could be taken apart and stored during the summer & fall (since I
> don't want it on my patio then).  I imagine growing up plants in here
> Feb-May.  I think the sunlight is better and brighter than the
> fluorescent lights so the cold frame may work better....  Also better
> temp and humidity control.
>
> Any comments and suggestions? I'd like to get better with "difficult"
> plants:  perennials, not-so-easy to germinate seeds, and try seeds from
> exchanges, specialty sources that I don't see in the average garden
> store.
>
> -Allan
>
> --
> Allan Anderson
> Jardinage, Copper and Cedar Garden Art
> 3701 East Minnehaha Parkway
> Minneapolis, MN 55417
> 612-729-2285
> http://www.visi.com/~response/jardinage.html
>
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