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Re: PROPAGATION SERIES PART 1: "WHY PROPAGATE"

Duncan McAlpine wrote:
> 
> >
> > "This and the following articles/lectures by Amber Hearn are posted with her
> > permission. She asks that you keep in mind that they are originally given
> > live to an audience of amatuer gardeners in a garden forum and they are
> > written with this in mind. She is working on article number 7 at this time,
> > and will forward it to me to repost when it is complete. She maintains a
> > private mailing list for anyone who wishes to receive them directly. She
> > welcomes commments and constructive criticism. You may e-mail her directly
> > at jadare@accessus.net"
> >
> > PROPAGATION SERIES PART 1: "WHY PROPAGATE"
> >                                                       (By Amber Hearn)
> >
> > [PROPAGATION - The act of multiplying or reproducing plants.]
> 
> >                       WHY PROPAGATE
> 
> > Many people find gardening a fulfilling (if not obsessive) hobby, and
> > propagating your own plants is an economical and rewarding extension of
> > that. If you like to garden, you have a reason to propagate.  The most
> > obvious is the monetary savings of producing your own plants, instead of
> > purchasing them. This also applies to replacing them year after year.  At
> > the risk of sounding like President Clinton, let me give you an example.
> >
> > Let's say you want to put in a vegetable garden in the spring. You go to the
> > local garden center and purchase young vegetable plants. You buy tomatoes,
> > peppers, cabbage, broccoli, whatever. You pay how much for a pack of
> > veggies? Around here, the going rate is 75 cents a three-pack (25 cents
> > each) for veggies and annuals. If you put in a very big garden, this really
> > starts to add up, but if you start your own from seed, you pay about that
> > same price for an entire packet of 30-50 vegetable seeds. The soil is
> > pennies per pot, depending on what you use, and you can make your own pots,
> > or reuse old ones. You can grow as many as you like for about 10 cents
> > apiece (for veggies, it costs me only 3 cents, but I make my own soil mix
> > and buy pots in bulk at
> > a great savings).
> >
> > Try applying this same formula in regards to reproducing your perennials,
> > shrubs and trees. The seeds aren't much more expensive, and if you could
> > only purchase one expensive hybrid and make as many more as you wanted from
> > a scrap of foliage or a root snipping, what would your savings be?
> >
> > There are other reasons as well. First you won't have to buy new plants to
> > replace old ones, you just take a few cuttings. Second, if you can grow a
> > seed, or root a cutting, you are no longer limited to just what plants are
> > available, but can grow a much wider variety of plants. Many wonderful
> > garden plants are never available for sale, because they are not easy to
> > mass produce, or they don't look good in pots.  Third, you are in total
> > control of the quality of your plants. No nasty chemicals, unless you're
> > foolish enough to use them, no growth hormones or growth regulators, no
> > plants weakened from poor maintenance, no plants so pot bound an earthquake
> > wouldn't shake the roots loose, no pests, no disease, etc. Fourth, you're
> > extras make great gifts, or can bring in a little extra pocket money.
> >
> > The economical rewards are not the only ones though. Although propagating is
> > not an absolutely essential skill to the gardener, it is a pleasurable
> > extension of that hobby. To me, and to many gardeners, there is as much
> > reward in coaxing a stubborn seed to sprout, or rooting a cutting as there
> > is in any aspect of gardening. And if nothing else, it gives you something
> > to do on those long dreary winter days, when you are dying to play in the
> > dirt, but don't want to be wet and cold.
> >
> > What makes propagating doubly rewarding is that it's not a difficult skill
> > to master.   I have a small nursery here in Kell, and I propagate 95% of the
> > plants we sell. My customers are often amazed at this. I hear comments about
> > how I'm so talented, and "wish I could do that".  But, as much as that
> > boosts my ego, the truth is that there isn't a gardener out there that can't
> > do exactly what I do. When I left the military, 8 years ago, I couldn't keep
> > lettuce alive (and it wasn't from lack of trying), but I learned how to grow
> > and propagate and now I do it for a living. When we propagate we are only
> > copying what nature does, but in a more intense and controlled way. All
> > we need do is follow the same simple steps to achieve success.
> >
> > You can really get to know your plants when you propagate them. You will
> > find that you look at plants more closely and in greater detail than ever
> > before. You will find yourself noticing things about their habits and
> > characteristics and the way they develop from seedlings or cuttings.
> > Propagating will widen your view into the world of your garden, and makes a
> > refreshing change from the often monotonous job of garden maintenance, which
> > all garden owners must perform.
> >
> > For instance, did you know... that there are several species of plants that
> > propagate themselves vegetatively by producing baby plants on their leaves,
> > or on runners?... the seed pods of some plants explode when the seeds are
> > ripe, throwing them for great distances?...some plants, such as sedums, many
> > succulents, African Violets and Rex Begonias, can be propagated from a leaf,
> > or even a piece of one?... that you could increase your expensive Oriental
> > or Asiatic Lily bulbs simply by breaking off one of the segments (scales)
> > and rooting it?...did you know that you could grow beautiful Dahlias from
> > seed, and overwinter and divide them to make more?
> >
> > If none of the above arguments for propagation sways you, then perhaps  you
> > don't need to learn anything about propagation. But for those of you with an
> > interest or a need to know, let us begin this series by discussing where
> > your first attempt at propagation should take place...more
> >
> >                       WHERE TO PROPAGATE
> >
> > I have read many a book on propagation, and nearly without exception have
> > found one basic flaw in all of them. They are written by nurserymen, or
> > horticultural experts, who have all of the modern conveniences the industry
> > allows, and the books are written as if you do too.  The problem is that
> > most amateur gardeners do not have a greenhouse, only a small percentage have
> > a professional cold frame, and few if any have any of the expensive fancy
> > gadgetry that the pros take for granted, such as mist propagation units, $60
> > apiece horticultural light bulbs, or heating mats.  If we had the money to
> > throw away on that, we probably wouldn't bother to propagate our plants,
> > we'd hire a gardener to do it for us while we sat in the garden enjoying the
> > view.
> >
> > For almost all of the plant subjects you may want to try to propagate, you
> > will not need a greenhouse at all. As a greenhouse is a luxury for most
> > gardeners, the best answer is usually a cold frame.  The cold frame provides
> > a moist humid warm protected environment that is ideal for propagating. The
> > only real difference between a cold frame and a simple greenhouse is that you
> > don't have to expose yourself to the elements while working in it. The cold
> > frame in fact, has an advantage over the greenhouse as it is easy to keep
> > warm or cool and can be moved easily if need be.
> >
> > A cold frame is nothing more than a small structure with four walls - the
> > back wall usually higher than the front and the sides sloping - and a clear
> > roof - such as a couple of old windows or a wooden frame covered with
> > plastic.  There are variations of course.  My first coldframe consisted of a
> > square made of straw bales and plastic sheeting draped over the top and
> > tucked under the straw.  An old packing blanket served as insulation during
> > very cold periods.  This served me quite well for several years until my
> > husband built me a couple of nice wooden ones. A great simple cold frame can
> > be constructed by looping polyethylene plastic over wires bent in a U and
> > stuck into the ground.
> >
> > I must here warn you against the use of window glass if you have young
> > children.  My youngest son climbed on my one and only glass cold frame and
> > fell through it.  He was miraculously uninjured, but my heart will never be
> > the same and I will never again own a glass cold frame.
> >
> > It is best to position the frame under the shade of a tree. If the frame
> > must be in the sun, an old curtain, sheet or shade cloth can be used to
> > shade out the harsh burning rays of the sun. Be sure to put a mulch of sand
> > or small rock on the floor. This will help keep bugs out and roots in the
> > pots where they belong. It also reduces the growth of harmful fungus and
> > mold. Some gardeners like to heat the frame by digging out the area under
> > the frame and filling it with fresh manure, covered by sand and burlap, but
> > I tried that and found that my cuttings and seedlings never got attended too
> > for some strange reason. I usually only heat mine if it is really cold, and
> > then I use a couple of incandescent light bulbs on an extension cord to keep
> > it above freezing inside, and an old blanket over them to hold in heat.
> >
> > Some of the new purchased cold frames come complete with heaters, fans
> > automatic vents and heating cables, but these are all luxury items  and I've
> > never used any of them.  Save your money for the plants and seeds your
> > success at propagating will tempt you to buy. In the cold frame, flats of
> > cuttings or pots of seeds may be stood directly on the sand surface until
> > such time as they are ready to be exposed to the elements.  Even if you do
> > your propagating in the house, it is almost essential to have some sort of
> > cold frame in which to harden off seedlings and cuttings before placing them
> > in the garden, but keep in mind my first one made of straw and plastic. A
> > cold frame doesn't have to be fancy. (Don't ever tell my husband, but the
> > only thing that works better about the ones I have now is that they look
> > nicer and they don't drop bits of straw into my flats).  If I had to choose
> > between giving up my greenhouse or my cold frames, there would be no
> > contest. Every gardener is different, but I find cold frames essential for
> > successful
> > propagating.
> >
> > As I mention above, it is quite possible to propagate successfully in the
> > warmth and comfort of your home.  I still start many seeds and cuttings
> > indoors, even though I have a both a greenhouse and cold frames.  I find
> > that in the fall and winter, when I do most of my cuttings and seeds, it is
> > easier to regulate the temperature indoors. If you choose to propagate in
> > the  house, I would highly recommend the use of fluorescent lights.  No need
> > to get fancy.  For propagation purposes, a cheap fixture from the local
> > discount store and plain old shop lights will do just fine.  There is no
> > need for expensive horticultural lighting just to get plants started inside,
> > as long as you are not planning on keeping them there for an extended length
> > of time.
> >
> > Find a place in the home though that you will not mind the mess in. I use
> > the basement, but my girlfriend propagates in a corner of the kitchen and
> > cleans up afterward.  I do not recommend the use of window sills.  Usually,
> > the light is variable and barely adequate at best, and temperatures will
> > swing extremely both ways near the glass, especially in the winter.
> >
> > If you are doing cuttings, you will also probably need to find a method of
> > regulating the humidity around the plant material. Most homes are too dry
> > indoors for this. This can be accomplished very simply by draping plastic
> > over a piece of wire hung above the pots, by individually wrapping pots with
> > plastic bags or by doming the pots with a plastic lid. (The round dome of a 2
> > litre coke bottle makes a wonderful indoor greenhouse for a single 4" round
> > pot and if you can still find them, the bottom of the bottle makes an
> > excellent seedling pot). It is best if the plastic does not touch the plant
> > material directly as condensation will collect there providing a perfect
> > environment for fungus and mold to grow. If you use my method of seed
> > starting, which we'll get into later, humidity isn't a problem.
> >
> > Give it some thought. Next time, we will continue our adventures here by
> > learning about the basic tools required. (Don't worry, you own 99% of it
> > already, I guarantee it).  And in the following weeks we will cover all the
> > basic techniques, and if anyone is interested, some history.
> >
> >
> > I hope I haven't forgotten anything important, but I think that covers most
> > of what you may need. We'll discuss potting soil mixes as we go.  The next
> > lecture, I will continue the series with the topic "Seed Propagation"
> 
> > %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
> > Amber & Wayman Hearn                    jadare@accessus.net
> > Whippoorwill Creek Nursery              USDA Z-5
> > 943 Foxville Road                       mintemp = -15F/maxtemp = 102F
> > Kell, IL 62853
> > 618-822-6000
> > Perennial Editor, http://www.suite101.com/
> > %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
	
I found this lecture on propagation very informative and highly
appreciated.  Looking forward to more info.

Martha
References:
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