Re: kalmias
Hello Susan,
When I first stared off with mountain laurels I went for the biggest ones I
could find for the price... ended up loosing every one of them, or they died back
to the roots and started over. Tried smaller starts where the roots were not pot
bound, and they are doing well in the garden.
Mine are located under mature dogwoods in fairly decent soil. I made up a mix
of mini-pine bark nuggets, composted leaves, peat and native soil to plant them
just a bit above the soil line.
I treat my kalmias same as the rhodies and azaleas in the garden.. if you want
the blooms seen in the pretty pictures, one need to fertilize and at the right
times. pinching them back after blooming helps to fill out the shrubs for a better
appearance.
Gene Bush Southern Indiana Zone 6a Munchkin Nursery
around the woods - around the world
genebush@otherside.com http://www.munchkinnursery.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Susan Campanini <campanin@NTX1.CSO.UIUC.EDU>
Subject: [SG] kalmias
> Since we're talking about kalmias, let me ask for your advice on my
> spring plans to grow kalmias in the Midwest (which everyone says is
> impossible or at least difficult...).
> I am planning to plant them in partial shade with soil amended with
> a lot of leaf mold and mushroom compost and some pieces from a stump that
> fell apart in the hopes of being able to plant shallow yet provide aeration
> to the roots. I will have to keep watering a lot in the hot spells, of
> course, and I'm not sure what kind of winter protection I will need to
> provide.
> But first of the all, the question is whether I'm better off to try
> this experiment with a small start (there are some 6-12 inch starts
> available very cheaply from Bluestone) or go for a larger plant (there are
> some from Arrowhead in CT that are 1 gallon size I think). Any and all
> advice would be appreciated.
>
>
> Susan and David in Urbana, Illinois, zone 5b
