Hosta College
- Subject: Hosta College
- From: Gene Bush g*@OTHERSIDE.COM
- Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 17:49:38 -0500
Just a reminder to all you shade lovers,
The Hosta College is this coming March 7th and 8th in Piqua, Ohio. That
is Friday evening and all day Saturday. The dinner is Saturday evening after
all the classes. I will be teaching one of the first classes of the day, the
get to sit in on 4 or 5 more classes. Lunch is great... as is the dinner.
Cost is $50 for non-hosta members... $35 for members. Dinner is $15. Some
classes have fees attaches.
Folks, this is well over 500 shade gardeners and hosta-nuts. I am not a
board member so can not help you beyond mentioning the fact that I am going
the 5th year in a row. Registration deadline is February 11th. See you
there...
Gene E. Bush
Munchkin Nursery & Gardens, llc
www.munchkinnursery.com
genebush@munchkinnursery.com
Zone 6/5 Southern Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marilyn Dube" <mygarden@EASYSTREET.COM>
To: <shadegardens@MAELSTROM.STJOHNS.EDU>
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: [SG] hellebore seeds
> Thanks Marge I appreciate the tips.
> Marilyn Dube'
> Natural Designs Nursery
> Portland, Oregon
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: PRIMROSES [s*@MAELSTROM.STJOHNS.EDU] On Behalf Of
> Marge Talt
> Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 9:57 PM
> To: shadegardens@MAELSTROM.STJOHNS.EDU
> Subject: Re: [SG] hellebore seeds
>
> Well, Marilyn, both those species seem to want more sun in my garden
> than the x hybridus types (orientalis)....but, if you need to move
> them, it is best done in early autumn when they start making new
> roots.
>
> Hellebores bloom, then put out new foliage and then rest a bit while
> they are thinking about making flower buds for the next year and then
> grow new roots in late summer/early autumn. They don't do a lot of
> root growing in the early part of the year.
>
> They can be moved at other times, but, according to Graham Birkin,
> that's the best time from their standpoint. He does dig and divide
> for spring sales as well, and the plants survive and grow on fine,
> but, from the hellebore's point of view....
>
> Both H. argutifolius and H. foetidus are caulescent types and don't
> seem to make the huge root systems of the acaulescent species, so
> seem to me to be a bit easier to move.
>
> If you want to move them earlier than autumn, then I'd wait until
> after bloom when you see signs of new stem growth so you can cut back
> the old stems. This would make it easier for them to stand up after
> moving...those old stems can be heavy. Try to get as big a rootball
> as you can and replant immediately...should do fine. Tho' both of
> these can tolerate dry spots, I'd make sure they were well watered
> after their move and didn't dry out through the rest of the growing
> season.
>
> Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
> mtalt@hort.net
> Editor: Gardening in Shade
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> ----------
> > From: Marilyn Dube <mygarden@EASYSTREET.COM>
> >
> > Marge and All,
> > Have been following the Hellebore seeds discussion with
> interest. I found
> > "volunteer" seedlings for the first time this winter when I cut
> away last
> > years leaves so the flowers show better. They were under 3 clumps
> of H.
> > orientalis - white, darkest purple & mauve. They were big enough
> to dig and
> > pot up into 4" pots and then went right back outside. It will be
> fun to see
> > what colors they turn out to be when they bloom as they could be
> any
> > combination of colors from the bees doing their job.
> > What I would like to know is if anyone on this list has had
> experience
> > moving well-established clump(s) of Hellebores? I have a large
> clump of H.
> > argutefolius and a large clump of H. foetidus that get hot west
> facing sun
> > all summer and need to be re-located. I would assume they could be
> moved
> > after they bloom but before it gets hot? Probably this will set
> them back
> > as far as blooming goes for a year or two. Any advice would be
> appreciated.
> >
> > Marilyn Dube'
> > Natural Designs Nursery
> > Portland, Oregon
