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Re: [SG] Hydrangeas

At 1:33 PM -0700 7/5/98, Dick Tripp wrote:
>Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken mid- to late summer. Root them in
>propagating case 60F or garden frame.  Or you can wait and take them late
>summer to early autumn and root them in open ground.
>
>Softwood cuttings are done from spring to early summer.  A bit late now.
>
>If you want to try seeds, they are sown in a propagating case early to
>mid-spring.    Dick
>
>On Sun, 5 Jul 1998, venies.place wrote:
>
>> One of my best friends has a beautiful hydrangea growing. She seems to think
>> she pruned it late January this year and that is why it has so many
>> beautiful blooms, from a light pink to a deep purple.  She wants to take
>> part of the shrub and start another one in her yard.  How should she do it
>> and when?


There was a useful thread on a simliar question on the propagation list
recently. The poster asked about Oak-Leaf Hydrangea, but I suspect the
advice will apply to what might be Nikko Blue, or some other blue
hydrangea.  I'll summerize:


>From: Marge Talt <mtalt@clark.net>
>
>Softwood cuttings taken in July will root with bottom heat.  Dirr says they
>need relatively high IBA (0.8%), which may be why my success was limited.
>I did get a couple to root with only Rootone, however and no bottom heat;
>just the heat of our normal July.   So, it is possible.  I struck the
>cuttings and left the pots outside in the shade in a flat covered with a
>clear plastic top to keep in the humidity.  If you do encase them in
>plastic of any kind, make sure *no* sun hits them or they will cook.  This
>was a few years ago and I seem to remember that I got like four or so to
>root, but lost two over the first winter although they were in my cold
>pseudo greenhouse for the duration.  Seems to me that most Hydrangeas root
>fairly readily, but getting them to grow on can be a bit tricky - may just
>have been my, ahem,  technique :-)
>
>BTW, these plants sucker and it is possible to dig up the suckers in very
>early spring (like early March for me) and get them to grow on.  I've given
>some to people at that time of year and they have planted them and had them
>grow fine for them.


>From: "Steve Manion" <steely@fidnet.com>

>take cuttings in the spring when active growth is present. take tip
>cuttings..these will root the best. it is best not to use very woody parts.
>use a rooting powder also.


>"Diana L. Politika" <diana@olympus.net>

>Last summer, about early August, we had a wind storm that dropped a
>displayed tree  right on the crown of a $40 Oakleaf Hydrangea.  I took
>the peices and cut them into sections that had 2 nodes each and stuck
>them in the prop bench.  I got 4 to root, potted them into gallons and
>have them for $9.95.  There, I still get my $40, but I had to wait a
>year.  But really, $9 plants are more popular than $40 plants.
>Anyway, about half the cuttings took.  Maybe less.  You'd likely do
>better, as we had little time to toy with cuttings at that time of year.
>--


I also wanted to know about Nikko Blue in particular, and asked on
rec.gardens.  The concensus seems to be that Nikko blooms on both new
growth and on old growth, but favours new.  They can be pruned quite hard,
and come back beautifully.

I seem to recall advice that air-layering will work for hydrangeas, but
can't find the posts on that.

HTH,

Karen. [who wants to grow Nikko, even if it's not quite hardy here]
--
Zone 4a
Minneapolis, MN
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