Re: Azealas and Rhodies
- To: s*@MAELSTROM.STJOHNS.EDU
- Subject: Re: [SG] Azealas and Rhodies
- From: G* S*
- Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 07:25:13 -0500
On Sun, 22 Oct 2000, Tammy Jones wrote:
> I am gathering from the various posts here that perhaps it is the soil
> which determines on how well rhodies and azaleas do in a specific zone
> (with exceptions of course) instead of the zone itself. Or perhaps it
> is a bit of both. . .
>
> However, I have three of the old fashion, regular 'ol rhodies - and they
> seem to barely get by. In other words, they do ok - but they have never
> really given me spectacular blooms and one is about half gone. They
> were planted in a bed amended with wood mulch, pine needles and compost.
>
> On the other hand my first PMJ hybrid, I bought at a steep discount, not
> really sure how it was going to do, etc. so I just plopped it in one
> late fall to see. It is the most spectacular azalea/rhodie in my
> garden. Perhaps this is a hybrid more tolerant not only of zone 5
> temps, but also less picky about soil. ????
>
> Tammy
> Zone 5b
> Mid Missouri
>
Greetings from flatland Champaign, IL USA. . .
Tammy, how right you are.
We think of soil as being sandy, clay, or silt, which it is, but much
more. Most of soil is this mineral material (clay, sand, etc) with
organic matter and bacteria/fungi/plants/animals and all their
chemical secretions interwoven into a living matrix that develops S L
O W L Y over decades and eons.
The living matrix has structure and internal drainage/aeration. Think of
"good" soil as a loaf of homemade bread--organically grown fresh
ingredients, made in small batches, slowly, by hand, with a variety of
holes in the bread some large, some small, no artificial preservatives.
Contrast this with a loaf of (my favorite) WONDERBREAD--chemically grown
stale ingredients, full of artificial preservatives and 10 essential
vitamins, massproduced, all holes in the bread with same size. Good bread
has a wonderful smell and enough structure to hold itself up. The other
stuff has no smell and lacks structure, just flops limply over.
The "associates" in bread that help make is so "good" are yeast, sugars,
and hands. The "associates" in natural soil that make it so good are
sugars that "leak" from the roots of plants, organic matter from
decomposing leaves, roots, and stems, bacteria and fungi, and the "hands"
that work the soil (worms, pillbugs, millipedes, etc, etc.)
All of these associates help "glue" the soil together with good structure
that enhances water holding capacity and drainage.
Our activities can destroy structure--foot traffic, working soil when
wet--that creates poor drainage and poor aeration in an otherwise
wonderful soil. Avoid soil compaction--use lots of isolated stepping
stones or work from the edges of the planting bed.
Thank you to those who have posted info on raised beds and use of TONS of
organic matter on top of the soil. This is as close to the natural method
of soil formation as you can get. It has worked well for us--wide dig
overs, make certain that no hardpan exists that impedes drainage (test
with a wire coat hanger stuck vertically several places in soil, or just
dig down with a shovel to feel and look.
One commercially available bacterial and fungal associates that I
know of is Plant Health Care (planthealtcare.com or 800--421-9051). Other
good sources exist. This company markets commercially grown naturally
occuring beneficial bacteria and fungi that normally exist to the benefit
of plants. Products to benefit rhododendrons and azaleas exist, and more
are on their way. BUT--not a substitute for quality soil.
Regarding problems with growing rhody's in the midwest. sudden shifts of
temperature in early-Fall and late-Winter can beat up a plant. Someone in
this list mentioned use of an early-Spring "blanket" of loosely layered
leaves around tender plants to keep them cold as a warm weather front
approached. Not needed every year, but one of the tools in our gardening
kit.
One final thought about roots. Plants can come from a highly reputable
nursery "too deep" in the ball or with root system constricted from some
previous phase of nursery production. Plant the crown of the plant at or
slightly above the soil line. Try and select a plant that lacks circling
or girdling roots. It is often best to start small with a root system
that has not become crowded by being held in one size container too long.
