Re: melons

Cantaloupe
Q. Why do my cantaloupes bloom and bloom but seldom set any fruit?


A. Cantaloupes, like other vining crops such as cucumbers, pumpkins, squash
and watermelons, require pollination for fruit set. This means pollen must
be transferred from the male blooms to the female blooms. Although
cantaloupes are different than other vining crops because they have flowers
which contain male and female parts as well as those which contain only male
parts, pollination by bees is still necessary. High temperatures or high
fertility can cause the cantaloupe to produce only male blooms which results
in poor fruit set. Nematodes can also cause small plants, profusion of
blooms and no fruit. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls
or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the
root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root
knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable
crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for
root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the last killing
frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop.
Cereal rye should be shredded and tilled into the soil 30 days before
planting a spring crop.


Q. Are bees necessary for pollination and fruit set in home- grown
cantaloupes?


A. Although cantaloupes produce some perfect flowers (those that contain
male and female parts) which can set fruit without pollen from a male
flower, an adequate supply of bees during bloom will insure an abundant
cantaloupe harvest. Most problems with fruit set in cantaloupes are caused
by a lack of pollinating insects during the blooming period.



Q. Can cantaloupes cross-pollinate with other crops such as cucumbers,
watermelons, squash or pumpkins?


A. Crossing between members of the curcurbit family is rare. If crossing
occurs, it will not show up in this year's fruit but will be evident if seed
is saved from these fruits to plant in next year's garden. Many people rate
off-flavored or strange- colored fruit with cross-pollination, but it is
usually caused by environmental conditions or disease.



Q. What is the best way to determine when a cantaloupe is ready for harvest?


A. The cantaloupe is ready to harvest when the stem easily separates from
the fruit. To avoid over-ripening, harvest cantaloupes before they naturally
separate from the vine. The best way to check maturity of cantaloupes is to
place your thumb beside the stem and gently apply pressure to the side. If
the stem separates easily, the cantaloupe is ripe.



Q. Some years my cantaloupe are sweet and tasty and other years they have no
flavor at all. What is wrong?


A. Cantaloupe flavor depends upon environmental conditions. High rainfall or
excessive irrigation as the cantaloupes near maturity will adversely affect
fruit flavor. Also, diseases which reduce the vigor of the plant and the
leaves' ability to produce sugar will affect fruit flavor. Maintaining the
plants in a healthy growing condition and avoiding excessive watering near
maturity will improve cantaloupe flavor. Lack of flavor is not caused by
cantaloupes crossing with other vine crops, such as cucumbers. Variety of
cantaloupe grown affects flavor.



Q. Can you save seed from this year's crop of cantaloupes for planting in
next year's garden?


A. Yes, but this is not recommended. Do not save seed from any vine crops
because some cross-pollinating can become evident when the seed are planted
in next year's garden. If you grow only one variety of cantaloupes and there
are no cantaloupes in neighborhood gardens, seed can be saved for next year
without producing off-type fruit. If hybrid varieties are used, you should
not save seeds for next year's planting.



Q. What is the difference between a honeydew and cantaloupe?


A. Honeydew melons are closely related to cantaloupes but ripen later. Most
honeydew melons have white or green flesh and mature within 100 to 120 days
after planting. Honeydew melons do not slip from the vine as cantaloupes do
and are mature when they become creamy to golden yellow in color and the
blossom-end softens slightly.



Q. The foliage on my cantaloupe is developing yellow spots with a downy
growth underneath.


A. This is downy mildew and can be controlled with resistant varieties (Top
Score, TAM Uvalde, Perlita and PMR 45) and fungicide applications using
chlorothalonil.



Q. The foliage of my cantaloupes is covered by brown, dead spots which fall
out giving the foliage a very tattered appearance.


A. This disease can be controlled with fungicide applications at 10- to
14-day intervals. Use chlorothalonil.



Q. The stems near the crown of my cantaloupes are splitting, and an
amber-colored ooze is forming around these cuts. Soon after this happens,
the plants wilt and die.


A. This is gummy stem blight. It is a soil-borne fungal disease that infects
and kills young plants. It can be controlled with benomyl sprays applied at
the crown of the plants when they are just beginning to form runners.
Rotation within the garden will also help prevent this problem.



Q. After the recent rains, my cantaloupes began to rot. Around the base of
the decay there was a white fungal mat.


A. This is southern blight. The control for this is mulching between the
fruit and the soil. Heavy soils will be more prone to this problem than
light, sandy soils. Chemicals do not prevent this. Waterings should be light
and quick so the soil does not stay wet for long.



Q. The roots of my cantaloupe plants are covered with knots and small
swellings.


A. These are root knot nematodes. Root knot is a species of nematode which
causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of
nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and
stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of
weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand
(close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before
the first killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a
winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shred and tilled into the soil 30
days before planting a spring crop.



Q. My cantaloupe leaves look wilted and have a sticky substance all over
them. What causes this?


A. A wilted appearance and sticky honeydew on melons are characteristics of
heavy aphid infestations. Control aphids on cantaloupes with dimethoate,
malathion or Thiodan. Use as directed on the label.



Q. My cantaloupe leaves have little trails or tunnels all over them. Will
this harm my plants?

A. These trails are caused by leaf miners. Plants can tolerate very large
populations without yield loss.

Q. My cantaloupe leaves have a web all over them and some of the leaves are
turning yellow and dying.


A. The plants are probably infested with spider mites. Check the underside
of the leaves for small red mites. Remove and destroy heavily infested
plants. Treat light infestations with diazinon or Kelthane. Use as directed
on the label. Never use sulfur as an organic control on vine crops.
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index