Re: Growing tomato varieties for book
- To: v*@eskimo.com
- Subject: Re: Growing tomato varieties for book
- From: N* <R*@foxinternet.net>
- Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 07:58:10 -0800
- References: <001601be2589$95c02f20$823f56d1@ms231437>
- Resent-Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 07:58:53 -0800
- Resent-From: veggie-list@eskimo.com
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cvinson@mindspring.com wrote:
>
> I have mostly "lurked" on this list, but now that the growing season is
> winding down most places, I thought I'd post a note in case anybody
> particularly interested in a)tomato growing, b) sustainable agricultural
> practices.
>
> I am writing a book that will be published winter of 99. The book grew out
> of time spent online talking with other gardeners and market growers. The
> subject is tomatoes, with an emphasis on heirlooms and open pollinated
> varieties. The idea is to have as many experienced (and not so experienced)
> growers from different regions of North America (as well as overseas) trial
> different varieties and include their comments and experiences in the book.
>
> If you've got an interest in joining the Internet Tomato "gang" of growers,
> send me a note (cvinson@mindspring.com or freshherbs@mindspring.com) and
> I'll get you the information. (Please let me know your geographic location
> and USDA zone).
>
> I will supply seed for all varieties. You can grow as few as six plants
> (fewer if you've got real limitations on space). Varieties would be mixed,
> e.g., beefsteak, slicer, salad, cherry, novelty, etc. I'd provide sheets to
> keep your growing records and notes that you'd send back to me at the end of
> the growing season. These aren't formal trials....rather they are intended
> to reflect the observations, comments and experiences of real people growing
> under varied conditions.
>
> I'll start sending out seed in mid-January, so am sending this now, since
> time is getting short for people in the warm zones, etc. For example, I
> usually start some ultra-early tomatoes under lights in late-January to set
> out with protection in mid-March. This means I have tomatoes by mid-May.
>
> I feel awkward writing a public note about a part of the project. So, if I'm
> out of place posting this, I apologize; it's not my intent to promote
> anything commercial here EVER.
>
> Catharine/ Atlanta, zone 7b
> freshherbs@mindspring.com
> cvinson@mindspring.com
Interesting project. In my particular case I don't think I'd want to
expend the effort to try to grow randomly-selected tomatoes as a trial.
In the Pacific NW we have a moderately long frost-free season but the
summers are cool and damp through about 04 July and then only a little
warmer and dry. Other than especially warm microclimates (south side of
a white building near the salt water but not so near as to be foggy, for
instance) it's very difficult to grow "normal" tomatoes. I live in the
hills near Seattle where it's exceptionally cloudy in the spring and
stays cool until June. In July and August our high are a bit higher
than in the city but the nights are cooler.
I primarily grow the "Oregon" family of tomatoes, which were developed
at Oregon State University and I always try one or two other
short-season types eash year. I grow them under cover for the entire
season unless we have a "heat wave" (90 degreee F days and 65 degree F
nights). I start getting fruit in early August and it lasts until the
end of September or early October. If you're interested, I can keep
records on my results this year, but I'd prefer to use my own varieties.
Steve (Maritime...)