This is a public-interest archive. Personal data is pseudonymized and retained under GDPR Article 89.

Re: Blight


Dear M. Take a sample of the diseased tomato to your local University
cooperative extension office. We have a farm advisor in our office that
deals exclusively with vegetables for commercial growers. He will help with
backyard gardeners also. You need to find out if it is in fact blight and
it can be serious.  Or it may not be. Get it identified so you will know
how to proceed. We are getting some early blight,alternaria, here in
Northern California. 
L




At 07:01 PM 6/29/98 +0100, you wrote:
>On Mon 29 Jun, M. Mathena wrote:
>> I have 100 tomato plants, several varieties, they are just now 
>> producing ripe tomatoes. Most plants are in cages, some are not,  but 
>> some now have blight. Do I need to spray with a blight spray? The 
>> plants are drying and dying. I need help! We have had a very wet 
>> summer, zone 5, or 6. (Indiana). I spread straw around plants, 
>> thinking that would keep  weeds in check, also keep tomatoes on the 
>> ground out of the wet dirt. Thanks for any info.
>> Monica
>> 
>You should make sure that it is blight, which will show as
>brown patches on leaves and fruit.You could pssibly be
>confused by leaf mould, get a book which illustrates the
>difference. Unfortunately there is no cure for blight but in the early
>stages you can check it from spreading to any healthy plants. Use either
>a copper based fungicide or Bordeaux mixture and drench everything, also
>remove any diseased material to prevent it spreading. I am afraid that
>any fruit affected will go bad rather than ripen.
>
>
>-- 
>Allan Day  Hereford HR2 7AU allan@crwys.demon.co.uk
> 



Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index