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Re: tomatoes & squash in L.A.



 
> This is about pruning tomatoes and harvesting and staking squash.
> 
> I have a bunch of different tomato plants, the varieties of which I do
not
> know (it's a long story).  I don't even know if they're determinate or
> indeterminate.  I am growing them on stakes.  Question:  how do I prune
them?
>  I don't know which parts to cut off and which to leave, so I haven't cut
> anything yet.

Determinate, or bush tomatoes, don't grow up into a vine, so you leave all
the shoots that develop at the leaf joints. Indeterminate, or vine tomatoes
(the greatest majority of varieties, by far) need to have those suckers
pinched off as they develop or you'll get all vine and leaves and many
fewer fruits.

> 
> Also -- how tall do I need the stakes to be for the tomatoes, whether
> indeterminate or  determinate?  

Determinate usually don't need a lot of staking -- one of those tomato
cages is perfect, because they don't get so tall. In determinate need a
tall stake, or better yet, a strong structure of stakes, a frame if you
will, with a soft, fat string hanging down right over the tomato plant. You
tie this gently at the very bottom of the plant and just carefully wind the
plant around the string as it grows. The supporting structure should be at
least five feet high above the tomatoes, and six or seven is better. Check
out how growers that grow (winter) greenhouse tomatoes do it. 

I am worried that all my tomatoes are
> determinate.  How do I tell?

My determinates (Principe) are much stockier than my longer determinates
(yellow Brandywine, Red Brandywine, Green Zebra and Graham's Long-Keeper)
and have many more and much stronger and healthier-looking suckers at the
leaf nodes. Otherwise, there is no difference that I can see.
  
> 
> I am in Los Angeles, where it's not yet June but my spaghetti squash is
> starting to look ripe.  Can someone tell me how to tell when spagetti
squash
> can be picked?  At this point they are large and yellow.  How will I know
> when they are completely ripe?
Pick and eat one! They probably are okay to eat down there if you've had
plenty of hot sunny weather.
> 
> Ditto for various winter squashes -- last year I left them on the vine
for a
> long long while and practically forgot about them.  They were most
certainly
> ripe by the time I felt like picking them.  I am gardening a lot more
> assiduously this year.  Question is, how *early* can I harvest winter
squash
> once they look "finished"?

Any time. Again, try one. The skin should be firm and not bruise easily
when pressed with a fingernail.
> 
> By the way, I've staked my squash and melons this year (as I read about
in
> books but never actually saw anyone do) and am getting terrific results
so
> far.  I have an *unbelievable* number of plants in a small space and all
seem
> to be  producing fruit.  My garden looks extremely neat as well and very
> impressive.  It is just such a fabulous change from growing vines on the
> ground in an unruly mess that I can't believe it isn't a more universal
> practice.  I am totally sold on this method and can't recommend it highly
> enough.
> 
> Anyone have experience pinching off the staked vines at about 6 or 7
feet?  I
> know that on the ground they often grow several times that length, but
that's
> what I've been doing and I'm hoping it's going to be OK.  

It's fine. Many gardeners pinch off the squash plants when they have enough
developing fruit on them, anyway, so the plant puts all its energy into the
fruit that's there instead of trying to make more and more that may not
have time to ripen. And it's for your convenience, anyway.
> 
> Any other Los Angeles/Southern California gardeners who want to trade
local
> tips -- climate, pests, local bargains?  

Denise McCann Beck
USDA Zone 7
Sunset Western 4
Coastal Bristish Columbia


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