Re: Grafting

In a message dated 10/28/98 6:52:31 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Rebecca.Neason@foxinternet.net writes:

<<   Sharpen the end of the scion to a
 wedge shape, again making sure your cuts are clean and sharp with no
 bruising or fraying of the wood.  Slide the wedge into the split,
 insuring that the bark layers line up on one side.  Wrap the joint
 carefully with tape so no moisture can enter.  If the parent branch is
 large enough you can insert two small scions into the cleft, each one
 lined up with the outer edge of the bark on the parent. >>

(good post Steve)

Though I have only grafted afew times,  I learned from an extremely
knowledgable person.  What you describe is pretty much what he did.  What I
would stress, besides using sharp tools,  is that one of the most important
things you can do is line up the tissues correctly.  It is most important to
have the thin growing layer (cambium) of tissue of the stock and scion to line
up so cell division will be continuous between the two in order that new water
and food conducting tissues will be formed in a continuous manner between the
two.  Only new tissue formed as dormancy breaks will conduct water and
minerals across the union.  This single cell layer is located just to the
outside of the woody tissue and to the inside of the bark.   

In addition to binding the union together with tape,  the guy who taught me
used to cover every cut surface of the whole union with lots of that black
gunky tree seal in order to keep the graft from drying out.   .  Months later,
once the graft has really taken and the branch is actively growing,  make sure
to carefully remove the binding tape so the branch wont be restricted too
much.  Also,  when the graft has taken,  the next year prune it carefully so
there isnt too much weight on the still young union.  

janet.
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