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Re: Wanting winter interest plants

> 
> Chris, thanks for that info...I will indeed looking for more
> "contorts"as the garden evolves.
>  I have to agree that I am always checking for sucker growth and have
> built a fence to break strong winds to protect the hazel nut but the
> thing I get the most irritated about it is the ants farming aphids on
> it. I am always trying to keep one step ahead of them. On days like
> today, however with the fresh snow down as a back drop, I am glad I put
> up with the hassles.
> I don't understand about the top grafting. Can someone explain that to
> me, please? Marg
>
Grafting is where the nurseryman uses a sturdy rootstock on which to
graft another plant  to.  Generally, the graft plant has some reason for
it not to be as desireable as found in nature.  Usually, the rootstock
is hardier, exhibits better behaved growth, or influences the growth
habit of the graft plant.  It can also be used to propagate a limited
supply of graft plant material.  Such as, if I only had 10 good sized
graft plants, I could conceivably graft onto 100 rootstocks and thus
multiply my stock by 10 times.  When the graft is made, it can be made
at any height.  Most corylus grafts are at ground level, as are most
roses.  Some flowering ornamentals are made at 4'.  Ever see those
ridiculous little weeping cherries that are hip high?  And you think
they are bred for small gardens?  Most weeping cherries are done at 6'
high.  A particular varigated salix integra H. Nishiki was seen at a
trade show as an 8' graft.  Looked great, except that the varigation is
strongest with regular pruning.  So, the message here is that just
because it is grafted that way, doesn't mean it's the best way to grow
the plant.
Pretty general description, but it might be more than you are aware of.

The Greenhouse Nursery
81 S. Bagley Creek Road & Hwy 101
Port Angeles, WA  98362
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