RE: Cracked tree

I did see the photos you’ve mentioned. Another rod may well be the best option but also a static or dynamic cable could be added to take the stress off of the part of the tree that is splitting. Cables are typically placed 1/3 of the distance down from the top of crown to where the crack starts. For instance if the tree is 50 feet tall and the split starts at 20ft the then the cable would go at the 40ft. level. (50-20=30) (30x.67+20) (20+20+40)

 

I’ve been a practicing arborist for over 25 years now and there is much more to the story but that is the short of it.

 

Del

 

From: owner-woodyplants@hort.net [mailto:owner-woodyplants@hort.net] On Behalf Of robyn82@bellsouth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 7:51 PM
To: woodyplants@hort.net
Subject: Re: Cracked tree

 

I would put another rod in up higher.  Then do nothing but pay your insurance.  One of the trees at our court house is split nearly to the ground and is still up but I would not park under it.

Nancy

 

From: Don Martinson <llmen@wi.rr.com>
To: "woodyplants@hort.net" <woodyplants@hort.net>
Sent: Sat, March 10, 2012 7:27:17 PM
Subject: Cracked tree

While the March winds are still blowing, here is a question I'd like to pose
for the hidden arborist in any of our subscribers.

Attached are 2 photos of a crack which appeared in the main trunk of my
Robinia 'Purple Robe' about 10 years ago.

At the time, I affixed a threaded 1/2" diameter steel rod running
approximately along the heavy black line indicated in the first photo.  I
had hoped the tree might heal itself, but as you can see at the red arrow,
this has not happened.  The bolts and washers on the ends of the original
threaded rod have long been since disappeared into the trunk of the tree.

At the present time, the tree is exhibiting no distress, but I fear that at
some time in the future, the steel rod, being exposed to moisture will give
way and the trunk will split (the right half falling on my garage!)

Yes, I know, I should consult an experienced Arborist.  But what would they
do that I can't do myself?

Options:

Add another rod (brass, maybe) another 2-3 inches above the rod currently in
place.

In addition, place some sort of bracing (something about the height of the
red line in the photo) of the two main branches above the crack.

To fill or not to fill the existing crack with something, such as the
commercially available expanding form ("Stuff").  I have always steered away
from products such as pruning paint because of cautions that this would only
provide conditions for entry of disease organisms.

If this were your problem, what would you do?

Thanks,


Don Martinson
Milwaukee, Wisconsin

mailto:l*@wi.rr.com



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