Re: Flowering Shrubs/Trees Fertilizer

Pam,
First we need to do some detective work. What is the difference in the sites
of each plant of a pair? The rhodies, being only 3 feet apart probably don't
have a great deal of difference, but they might. What is the soil like where
they are growing? They are terribly unable to handle wet roots, especially
in the winter. If your soil has much clay and one plant is nearer a
downspout than the other, that could produce a problem for the nearer plant.
They also DEMAND an acid soil. Here in Minnesota, that is the biggest reason
for failure with them. Have you had the soil tested? When I relocated to MN
from the South I had to become aware of soil pH because it is generally acid
in the South and generally alkaline here. If your house is fairly new (less
than 10 years), there can be a lot of building rubble in the soil near the
foundation that is almost always alkaline in character. Amending alkaline
soil for rhodies cannot be done with fertilizer. If you think that could be
the problem, I could send the text of an information sheet we hand out at
work for this problem or suggest information on the Extension Service
database maintained by Ohio State University.

The Newport plums are farther apart and could have a greater difference in
site suitability. How much sun does each get? The same amount, or is there a
difference of more than a couple of hours each day? If both get partial
shade some of the day, is it the same part of the day? Does one get shade
from one source and the other from a denser or less dense source? If NO is
the answer to all these questions (soil differences too) then I would check
to see if the one that is not thriving has been planted too deeply.
Unfortunately, with the mechanized state of nursery production, it is quite
often possible for trees to have accumulated a significant amount of soil
over the root flare before they are sold. The homeowner who follows
directions and plants at "the level the plant grew in the nursery" by using
the soil level on the plant at purchase time is mislead by that soil line.
Dig down next to the trunk and find where the first roots flare out from the
trunk. If that is more than an inch or two AT MOST, the tree is suffering
from being planted too deeply. This problem has been pointed out by
University research groups for years, but is only reluctantly being
acknowledged by the nursery industry. A tree can live for several years with
this condition, but will always lag behind a correctly planted tree and
suffer from many stress-related problems, eventually succumbing. What I hate
the most about this, is that the tree owner most often blames him or herself
for the problem, when it was not their fault at all. If you find this to be
the case with your plum tree, the answer is not simple. If the tree is only
a year or two in the ground, you may be able to dig it up and replant at the
right depth. To successfully change the soil level around an older tree is
not easy. Then it becomes a matter of whether you might choose to replace it
or wait until it does die. No amount of good cultural practice will cure the
problem, but may slow its inevitability somewhat.

(the weatherman says you are getting snow today. Are you? We had 14 inches
last Monday and are now waiting to see the ground again!)

All that said, to answer your question about fertilizer and spring prep work
for them: Pruning for these two species should not be done now unless there
is some damaged word that needs to be removed. They will flower on what they
produced last year and I know that you are aware of the rhody buds at the
ends of the branches. Don't feed them until they are all actively growing
again. They can't use it while dormant, and a lot of the nitrogen will leach
out with the thawing ground before they can access it. A good reason to use
an organic fertilizer on trees and shrubs is that it stays put until the
soil micro-organisms break it down and release it to the plant roots. That
happens at the right time for it to be used. You can spread natural
fertilizers, something like Ringer's Lawn Restore (a bad name for it, it is
just as good for trees and shrubs, but the name doesn't indicate that.). We
have a product sold in Minnesota called Synchronicity that is based on
composted turkey manure, but that may not be available to you. It is the
result of our having a large turkey growing industry. I'm sure there are
things available there, but not here. Look for something with an analysis of
around 7-7-7. It may not be evenly balanced, but that doesn't matter if the
nitrogen is not too high. Pull back your mulch around the plants and spread
the appropriate amount of fertilizer, then replace the mulch. Be sure to
spread the fertilizer in a circle that is as near twice the height of the
plant as you can manage. The feeder roots go out that far. It doesn't have
to all have mulch over it, you just want the fertilizer in contact with the
soil, not the mulch under it. A good organic mulch breaks down and adds both
nutrients and organic matter to the soil so, if the plants are not mulched
that would be a good thing to do. It will keep the weeds down and the soil
soft and moist too.
One last thought on the problem plants: are either growing where they are
affected by the salt from sidewalks or street where it is used for snow and
ice removal? That can alter the soil pH and tie up nutrients for the plants.
If that is a problem, as soon as the soil thaws, flush the area with lots of
water to leach it out as much as possible (unless you have clay soil that
will not drain well). In this case be sure to have the soil pH tested, and
salt levels too, if your test facility will do it.
Happy gardening.
Mary Henry

----------
>From: Pamela Palmer <colitas@juno.com>
>To: woodyplants@mallorn.com
>Subject: Flowering Shrubs/Trees Fertilizer
>Date: Sun, Mar 14, 1999, 7:39 AM
>

> I have a pair of flowering plum trees (Prunus Thundercloud)and early
> spring blooming rhododendrons.  One of each pair is doing nicely and the
> other is definitely not.  Plums are over six feet apart and the rhodys 3
> feet.  What fertilizer or spring prep work should I be contemplating to
> get these two plants to thrive?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Pam
> Zone 7
> 1/10 mile from Cape Cod Bay

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