Re: [Aroid-l] Dormancy issues with Amorph's
- Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Dormancy issues with Amorph's
- From: &* D* <p*@zoominternet.net>
- Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 15:55:48 -0400
- List-archive: <http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/private/aroid-l>
Hi Clive,
I find the exact same thing on most all of my
species except konjac of course. If ones like bulbifer, longitberosus,
thaiensis, atroviridis, albus, macrorhizus, yunnanensis, etc. flower I have
no chance they will grow this summer and so I have found the easiest way to
deal with the problem is sell the silly tuber on ebay and be done with it
:o) I've been having this problem for 10 years now so it is not an
isolated incident with mine.
I too find the influorescences to all be a bit
too much the same anymore and would rather just have the petiole and leaf so if
hacking the influorescence before it grows too much will allow me to get
leaves in the summer as usual I am more than happy to sacrifice the
influorescence. I'm guessing this is not something most people try as they
grow them for the influorescence, but I hope that someone can give us an answer
and if not perhaps next spring I will just cut my influorescences off before
they develop too far and see what happens!!
I actually dread that some of my favorite petiole
species like cruddassianus and mossambicensis will flower as then I will be in
the quandry of keeping them for another entire year dormant before I can get a
leaf after they just spent a lot of energy flowering.
Hopefully others without a GH living in atleast
zone 6 or colder (sorry, but zone 7 and warmer is just not the same because your
seasons are sooooooo much longer) can help us out.
Thanks in advance to everyone,
Dan
Dan Devor
Gibsonia, PA where it is extemely hot and humid for
us!!
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