I also have this
problem on some tasks oily Anthuriums.
Once a year, in autumn, I am treated with Bordeaux
Bordeaux mixture is obtained by mixing copper sulfate and
hydrated lime well in water. This mixture
should never be in a container of iron.
container, dissolve 80 grams of lime in 5 liters of
2.If a second container, dissolve 150 grams of
copper sulfate, also in 5 lites of water.
3.Mélangez both mixtures .
The best ,
Geneviève Ferry ,
Nancy Botanical Garden
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 5:54
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Anthurium
Glad to have been of
Several clarifications appear in order.
IMO, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that anthurium blight is not already
in everyone's exotic aroid collection who is reading this, either
manifest or latent.
- From old lab work I know that I have had at
least three separate introductions into my own, from South Florida nurseries
(1999-2000), from a domestic anthurium cut flower source (1998-2000), and from
a commercial supplier in South America (this was diagnosed from tissue
collected at port of entry by our Ag Ministry lab in 2003...at that time
Xanthomonas campestris-positive did not require destruction of the plants so
they were waived. Needless to say, I quarantined the blazes out of this and
all subsequent commercial imports through 2006. Following ratification of
DR-CAFTA we are now under the regional one size fits all rule...these
plants would be incinerated if this import occurred
- Based on the protocol I outlined earlier, I
grow many flawless, very blight-sensitive Anthurium spp. in close
proximity to other plants with minor blight halos evident on leaf edges and
have images to prove it.
- For George Yao's benefit, what I
outlined in response to your initial posting IS an IPM-inspired protocol
for control of this blight in private and public
- Commercial growers have a vastly different set of
challenges and require a very different protocol for blight management and
require a somewhat different approach (see below).
- I have
the short form product data sheet for Agri-mycin formulation that I use
(manufactured at Pfizer's Toluca plant in México) before me. A correction to
an earlier statement I made...it is in fact 15% streptomycin sulfate and 1.5%
oxytetracycline + inert balance, not 17% streptomycin as I wrote. In any
event, in free translation the sheet reads that the product is "recommended"
for "control of the following diseases": "...bacterias caused by the
genera Xanthomonas, Erwinia and Pseudomonas" in the "following crops":
"Ornamentals"...Philodendron, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema."
yesterday's market close, Pfizer, Inc. market cap was almost US$ 160
- If, say, it were revealed that Pfizer, Inc.'s ag-chem
division was making manifestly false claims regarding the efficacy
of one of their mainstream products then, say, a well-heeled large ornamental
plant grower might be tempted to sue their pants (and big pants
they are!) off.
- Agri-mycin can provide very effective
suppression (not cure) of anthurium blight in COLLECTIONS OF
ORNAMENTALS when used properly in conjunction with a broader IPM-inspired
protocol. It is NOT a panacea nor a silver bullet to eradicate anthurium
blight and neither I (nor Pfizer) would ever claim that it is. However, it
certainly can provide suppression to a point where healthy, well-grown plants
can prosper with it latent in their environments. My own fairly large
blight-susceptible aroid collection, plus several published
sources, proves it.
- IMO, and as diplomatically-put as
possible; anyone who claims otherwise doesn't know what he/she doesn't
- If a given grower blithely continues to challenge their
blight-susceptible tropical aroids with environmental (note: IME, lousy water
quality aggravates anthurium blight in delicate plants for certain) or
management issues, this critter will ultimately (often in short
order) decimate all those vulnerable plants and nothing short of Divine
Intervention will save them. Don't waste your money on ag-chem if you are not
willing to practice clean culture - it won't really help.
from a hobbyists' perspective, successful management of this
nasty pathogen requires a certain mindset and quite a bit
of discipline with regard to handling and triage
of visibly-affected plants. Believe me, it works. Conversely, commercial
growers have, in the past, been faced with no other economically viable option
other than having to destroy their entire blight-susceptible
inventory and start afresh with new cultivation protocols and
blight-resistant stock from micropropagation. This also works, but at a
very steep price.
All those here who are willing to properly
dispose of the entirety of their exotic aroid collections just
because they contain some suspicious-looking or blight-diagnosed
rare plants and start all over with those handsome (the colors!!!)
tissue-cultured, mass-produced, PATENTED (no unauthorized asexual
propagation, folks) anthuriums, aglaonemas, alocasias and
philodendrons, please hold up your hands.
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:35:09 -0600
Thanks Jay. My
knowledge of this stuff is very limited but it did concern me once I began to
read some of the info on the internet. We see lots of poorly grown
ornamental Anthurium in some of our local stores, often showing signs
of what may be disease. I have a relative that is a district manager for
a large retailer and he says they throw away lots of plants as a result.
I just wouldn't want anyone to get the stuff in a prized
Thanks again for the info.
Anthurium blight has been with us forever and affects a
wide range of aroid genera. Breeders, including me, often select for plants
that show apparent tolerance to it but generally have learned to live with
it lurking in the wings. I am not sure that there are any Anthurium spp. nor
hybrids that are truly 100% blight-resistant, although the riparians
antioquiense and amnicola are known to transmit their tolerance to
andraeanum hybrid (the so-called andraecolas) offspring. Conversely,
there are a number of old andraeanum and crystallinum hybrids and quite
a few montane spp. that are exquisitely susceptible to
blight. Whether or not we are seeing more aggressive strains emerging
in the trade is another matter entirely; I have not imported
stock from the 'States since 2006 so would not be the right individual
to address this possibility. It would be interesting to hear from Denis
Rotolante, who would certainly know whether they are seeing new
antibiotic-resistant strains, and with whom I exchanged info on Xanthomonas
management in greenhouses in 2000-2001.
completely disagree with the notion
that small scale growers cannot effectively control this blight
and should not be buying anthuriums now because of it (!!!). While the
last time I actually had a lab make a positive pathogen determination for me
was almost 10 years back, I think many of us know it when we see it,
and I certainly no longer have the dread that I used to have for it when I
first started growing anthurium in the late 90s. I suffered a number of
severe outbreaks stemming from imported plants early in the last decade but,
frankly, I have not had a serious problem with it for years in spite of
growing more than "just a few" plants for cut flower ('Tropic Fire' and my
own hoffmannii based hybrids) and 0000s of foliage-type collector
Basically, what makes anthurium blight
control especially difficult for commercial growers is that the
pathogen is rapidly spread, not only by mechanical means such as
non-disinfected cutting tools, employees' hands, clothes, etc. - DR
mentioned once that Cuban treefrogs clambering from plant to plant in his
greenhouses were a suspected vector! - but also by splashing water and
leaves banging against each other (this is a bad thing generally for all
anthuriums!). Anyone who has this problem should be extremely
careful to avoid "hard" overhead watering or exposure to rain. While
this seems counterintuitive to a tropical aroid fan, bestest and
fastest control is gained when foliage is kept dry, well-ventilated
but nearly motionless in order to minimize mechanical damage to
the leaves that facilitates entry for the bacteria.
frontline treatment for foliar infection is Agrimycin
(streptomycin sulfate 17%) AFTER removing all visibly infected plant
tissue to a point well beyond the classic yellow halo line
circumscribing necrotic tissue. I would need to check my notes to see
at what concentrations I usually apply, but I do seem to recall that I
make three apps about 5-8 days apart. I often rotate or follow-up with
copper-based ag-chem although it is contra-indicated in the
literature...some have recommended systemic copper but I have found it
unnecessary, expensive and quite phytotoxic.
- While I
occasionally use concentrated quat ammonium dips for disinfecting my
pruners (at least three in the greenhouse, used in rotation), I definitely
favor flaming tools between cuts to all my plants to red hot. If you do
not consistently disinfect tools between plants, IMO, you will never gain
good blight control once it is firmly established in your
- It is VERY important to remove infected
leaves once they are visibly blighted to avoid the blight becoming systemic.
I will say that my experience has been that if one permits a severe
blight to extend from the lamina down the petiole (which will often mush at
the geniculum and the base) to the main stem, the plant is generally going
to hand in its lunch pail in very short order. If this occurs, toss these
- It seems that many growers-gardeners love to
fondle their plants when they're in their grow spaces. I cannot
emphasize enough that any handling of aroids that are known or
suspected of being blighted should be kept to an absolute minimum, and
hands disinfected between this kind of manipulation.
Agrimycin will invariably burn/disfigure leaves of Anthurium veitchii
and its hybrids, usually quite severely, as well as some old andraeanum
primary hybrids and few others. It can also be extremely hard on
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:54:00 -0600
[Aroid-l] Anthurium blight
from our friend Leland Miyano from information originating from botanist
There is now a very bad
Anthurium blight which may be spreading. At least two gardens
in France have had to deal with this one which has no cure. The one
that is really bad is Xanthomonas campestris pv.
dieffenbachiae which causes the leaf margins to turn yellow and all
the leaves to drop. I would suggest you be very careful about buying
new Anthurium right now! This has the potential to kill an
Some species appear resistant but others
spread it quickly. Some commercial growers in Hawaii lost almost
entire crops of ornamental Anthurium (the kind you buy in the store)
so be very careful about buying any Anthurium in a local nursery or
of you that are knowledgeable about this blight please pass along what you
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