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Re: [aroid-l] hibernation time

  • Subject: Re: [aroid-l] hibernation time
  • From: "Wilbert Hetterscheid" hetter@worldonline.nl
  • Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 16:59:10 +0200
  • Importance: Normal

CJ, why would you rinse off the soil? Why not put it in a pot with the soil
still "attached" and keep on watering and feeding until the leaf starts to
decay?

Lord P.


> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> Van: aroid-l-owner@lists.ncsu.edu
> [mailto:aroid-l-owner@lists.ncsu.edu]Namens C. J. Addington
> Verzonden: woensdag 1 oktober 2003 3:19
> Aan: aroid-l@lists.ncsu.edu
> Onderwerp: Re: [aroid-l] hibernation time
>
>
> on 9/29/03 16:01, Lester Kallus at lkallus@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> > Nights here on Long Island are beginning to dip down into
> the 40s.  I
> > understand that this coming Thursday night, it will be
> somewhere between 42
> > and 44.  I know that Amorphophallus konjac & bulbifer will
> decide for
> > themselves when to go dormant and so I'm not worried.
> >
> > I have some paeoniifolius in the ground.  They're still
> looking good.  I see
> > three choices:
> >
> > 1.  Wait until they begin to show signs of dormancy and
> then pull them up
> > 2.  Dig them up and let them spend sometime in the
> greenhouse until they go
> > dormant
> > 3.  Dig them up, slice the top off, wash the soil off and
> force dormancy
> >
> > Any thoughts?  I'd prefer to avoid the greenhouse time if
> possible - it's
> > going to be very crowded in there.
> >
> > Les
>
>
> Hi Les and All!
>     Just a thought about hibernation in Amorphophallus. I am NOT a
> professional on this, but have been growing various Amorphs
> for several
> years with good success, and thought I would stick in my 2 cents here.
>     It seems to me that once air temperatures dip low (like
> in the 40's) and
> the sun is low in the sky providing dimmer light, that most
> Amorpho species
> are probably not doing a whole lot of photosynthesizing anyway, and
> consequently are not growing their corms anymore to a great
> degree. Thus,
> leaving the plants in the ground will not produce any larger
> corms than are
> already present. Also, since many Amorphos detest cold, damp
> soil and are
> highly rot-prone, leaving them in cold ground may increase
> the chance of
> corm-rot.
>     So, I would suggest carefully digging up the plants, even
> if they look
> green, leaving the leaf (or leaves) attached, rinsing off all soil and
> placing the whole plant in a cool, dry place for a few days.
> The leaf will
> soon dry out, and the withered leaf will detach from the corm
> spontaneously,
> leaving a clean, neat abscission zone and an intact leaf bud
> for next year.
> The corm can then be stored for the winter (I stash them in
> brown peat moss
> in ventilated boxes).
>     I do this quite often with my own plants, and it seems to
> work just
> fine, although I would be very interested to hear if anyone
> has a different
> technique or sees a problem with mine.
>     Happy harvesting! My own fall harvest is kicking into
> gear, so I should
> have a whole row of drying, sad-looking plants myself soon!
>
> Cheers!
>
> CJ Addington
>





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