RE: Community Garden

H* A*

We use compost tea at the CCG as well. Thanks for reminding me ( gads, do
boomers get senior moments too?)

Best, 

Adam

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Laura McKenzie [SMTP:laurabrownmckenzie@worldnet.att.net]
> Sent:	Friday, February 18, 2000 4:30 PM
> To:	kristina & bruce; community_garden@mallorn.com
> Subject:	Re: [cg] Community Garden
> 
> You ask a good question!  The answer I've come up with is
> plenty of quality compost added to the soil each year. The
> compost combats disease problems and renews nutrients depleted
> by the plants.
>     For tomatoes and peppers and other plants that I set out
> into the garden I dig a hole, fill with lime (we have a pH of
> 4.3 in our clay) and compost.  It takes a good bit of time to
> plant this way but the plants make up for it with the way they
> produce!
>    Compost tea will also battle disease and is priceless IMHO.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: kristina & bruce <kjwbdw@gateway.net>
> To: <Dboek@aol.com>; <Rshtn1fn@bellsouth.net>;
> <community_garden-admin@mallorn.com>;
> <community_garden@mallorn.com>
> Cc: <drushton@bellsouth.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 2:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [cg] Community Garden
> 
> 
> > Hi - Adam and Don have fine advice about rotation, but I've
> often wondered
> > how small plot community gardeners manage it.  My town's
> community gardens
> > have 20 X 20 ft plots for each individual and rotation is
> simple.  How do
> > you rotate, however, when people have much smaller plots,
> where you your
> > broccoli isn't very far from where you or a neighbor had
> planted it the
> > previous year?  It seems to me that when the individual plot
> size becomes
> > too small, gardens are better being more communal (never a
> bad idea) and
> > having everybody grow their brassicas, for example, in one
> section of the
> > garden, which can be rotated.  This is mostly a point of
> curiousity, but I'm
> > interested in the contrasts between community gardens of
> individual plots
> > and "communal gardens".  Bruce
> >
> >
> >  -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dboek@aol.com <Dboek@aol.com>
> > To: Rshtn1fn@bellsouth.net <Rshtn1fn@bellsouth.net>;
> > community_garden-admin@mallorn.com
> <community_garden-admin@mallorn.com>;
> > community_garden@mallorn.com <community_garden@mallorn.com>
> > Cc: drushton@bellsouth.net <drushton@bellsouth.net>
> > Date: Friday, February 18, 2000 2:32 PM
> > Subject: Re: [cg] Community Garden
> >
> >
> > >Hi, Birmingham,
> > >As always, listen to Adam! I'd add that you might be
> especially wise to
> > >rotate where you grow your brassicas (like collards,
> cabbage, broccoli...).
> > >Here, we can grow them in the early spring and the fall, but
> not in the
> > >summer (like Birmingham, I reckon?). This makes a rotation a
> little more
> > >complicated, but still easy to manage. I leave at least two
> years before
> > >replanting brassicas in a bed (some recommend 4 years, but
> my space is
> > >limited). Try the cooperative extension there for veggie
> recommendations
> > >(they are usually listed under county government). I use a
> very simple
> > >'quadrant system' personally, which works well enough. Aside
> from
> > brassicas,
> > >I generally don't repeat the same crop in the same place for
> two years in a
> > >row, and leave it at that. I'm not superpicky about some
> things (lettuce
> > and
> > >flowers I stick in everywhere as intercrops, I'll grow
> legumes (peas,
> > >blackeyes, crowders, beans) right and left). But rotation is
> a good
> > practice,
> > >not just because of plant diseases but because different
> crops use
> > different
> > >nutrients and thus you don't deplete your soil. Last
> thought, I include a
> > >soil building crop in my rotation one year in 4 or so,
> either a cool
> > weather
> > >type (annual rye, crimson clover (beautiful)) or warm
> (buckwheat). This
> > >builds soil health.
> > >
> > >I work with home composting and school gardens both. About
> kids and
> > manures,
> > >just be prudent but not paranoid. Washing hands is very very
> important, as
> > >Adam says. If manure has been composted properly using a
> 'hot' system, it
> > >should be reasonably safe. I don't think I'd let young kids
> (less than 11
> > or
> > >12, say-that's arbitrary) work closely with raw manures,
> especially moist
> > >ones, or with dusty manures (frequently the case with
> poultry manures)
> > >regardless of age. Be cautious, though-an outbreak of
> Legionnaire's disease
> > >in Australia recently was traced to a batch of poorly
> processed
> > _commercial_
> > >compost, and many of those infected were gardeners. Know
> your supplier (or
> > do
> > >it right by doing the research and doing it yourself).
> > >
> > >Don Boekelheide
> > >Charlotte NC USA
> > >
> > >In a message dated 2/18/00 1:16:17 PM,
> Rshtn1fn@bellsouth.net wrote:
> > >
> > >>We have had a community garden for the past several years
> in a public
> > >>housing community in Birmingham, AL.   We have recently
> read that rotating
> > >>the planting of vegetables is very beneficial.  What are
> your thoughts on
> > >>this subject of rotating?  In particular, how many years
> should you wait
> > >>before it is necessary to change the location of planting
> of the
> > >>vegetables?
> > >>
> > >>What are your thoughts on the safety of kids handling
> manure in working in
> > >>the garden?
> > >
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> > >
> >
> >
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> 
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