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Re: (cg) hair


I believe the correct temperature is 150 degrees to kill off any disease pathogens and weed seed in your compost operation.  (As a general rule, never put any plant in your compost pile that you suspect has succumb to disease).    

One year, we used a tremendous amount of horse manure in our tomato plantings.  This was aged, out-in-the-field kind of stuff that a local stable had dumped for years.  That year, we harvested a bummper crop of tomatoes, over 6,000 lbs in 10 80' rows.  Great harvest.  Unfortunately, we also had a bumper crop of weeds.  

Making sure your compost goes though a heat process is very important.  You never know what kind of problems you will bring into your garden without doing this.  A closed system, as Lisa previously stated is the best way. A "compost" thermometer would give you further assurance that the proper temperature was achieved.

Jim



---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Lisa Coven" <LCoven@ci.Burlington.vt.us>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:12:00 -0400

>Actually did you know that there is a big difference between hot and
>cold composts.  If temperatures do not reach a certain point in
>decomposing then  there is a chance that bacteria will not break down
>and the compost could present a danger.
>Meat and dairy need higher temperatures which means a lot more
>maintenance in the long run.  I never support backyard food composting
>unless in a closed container and the person managing the compost knows
>what they are doing.  
>
>Lisa Coven
>Conservation Legacy Program
>Burlington Area Community Gardens
>Burlington Parks and Recreation Department
>645 Pine Street, Suite B
>Burlington, Vermont 05401
>802- 863-0420
>fax- 802-862-8027
>
>>>> "Robyn Stewart" <Robyn.Stewart@parks.nyc.gov> 07/14/03 02:30PM >>>
>The main reason to keep meat and dairy out of compost bins/piles is not
>that these materials will not decompose (they WILL), but rather that
>they tend to smell bad and attract animals.  Unless your compost is
>somewhere where you don't have to smell it and is entirely protected
>from animals, it is probably best to keep these materials out.  Hair and
>nails should be fine.
>
>Robyn Stewart
>City Parks Foundation
>1234 Fifth Ave, room 232
>New York, NY 10029
>(212) 360-2744
>Robyn.Stewart@parks.nyc.gov 
>
>>>> Hans H Harmsen <plenneke@xtra.co.nz> 07/10/03 03:37PM >>>
>I have not tested "hair" with my worms yet,
>but according to some worm information publications,
>worms WILL tackle hair and nails, if it is small enough to get started
>on.
>I.E. short hair and nailparings.
>Both materials are rich in protein, that is why the compost worm will
>feed 
>on it.
>
>Personally, I would put both those materials in the compost heap,
>which should be regularly stocked with composting worms,
>so that you will not encounter these materials later on in the soil.
>
>Any dead mice, rats and birds, which the cat brings into your home,
>can safely go on the compost heap too
>provided the heap is covered against the flies, flyscreen will do.
>The main danger here is, that it is attractive to roaming dogs, who
>will
>dig up your compost heap, to get at any meaty bits and pieces.
>We set a trap, and the dog ranger will prosecute the owners for not
>having the
>dog under continuous control.
>
>It is also a fallacy, that worms will shun certain foods like dairy
>produce,
>citrus foods and other strong smelling stuff like onions etc.
>When the worms are hungry enough, they WILL get into those as well,
>if they have no access to more attractive food for them.
>They started on my carpet squares which covered my wormbeds
>when I had others (under)feeding my wormbeds
>while I was away on a four month holiday.
>
>I had an "empty" cream container in the kitchen scraps one day,
>it had some sour cream left in it.
>You should have seen the worms it attracted, the little carton was
>full of worms when I investigated it later.
>
>However, if you put these things in the compost heap, please COVER
>it so that smells cannot escape, and flies, live rats, mice and birds
>cannot get at it.
>
>For more INFO on worms, visit my website : ( NOT COMMERCIAL )
>http://www.wormfarminginfo.co.nz 
>
>HH Harmsen.
>plenmneke@xtra.co.nz 
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
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>
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