Noreen - you mention citrus.
I have a really stupid question to ask you and Jim and anyone else who might know.
I think I read that some citrus trees crop more than once a year. Do
oranges set fruit more than once a year? If so, do they have blossoms at
the very same time that they have a big beautiful orange ready for
> Kitty, dont' have to dig anything here at all since the ground doesn't
> freeze. Do not have a problem here with pots freezing and breaking here at all
> either...not even the water garden containers. The plants that I do bring in
> all in pots. Many are succulents (caudiforms, bonsai), Plumerias, and such
> that do not tolerate being wet or in some cases having moisture at all during
> winter (dormancy). They will rot very quickly. These are usually plants that
> one would grow in heated green houses in northern states, with the same
> principles applying to refraining from watering during dormancy. Learned the
> way. Other plants I either cover or bring in during an actual freeze are
> young tropicals in containers that have not really had a chance to become
> established. When I first get a plant I tend to be a bit more protective, but
> once it
> becomes established I find that I no longer need to feel that way. Now, mind
> you, if we were ever to get a serious cold snap (down to the low 20's or
> below) then I would probably protect a lot more than I have in past years.
> We've had some dips in the past month down to the mid 30's, but yet Hibiscus,
> Bougainvillas, Aristolochia vine, Roses, Phillipine violets, all the Salvias,
> a few orchids, some bromeliads, and a few others are continuing to bloom.
> For the most part, I've found the plants do better when they are left outside.
> For instance, by not taking in or protecting the citrus, I have a better crop.
> Before I would take in the young citrus which bloomed all winter then, but
> ended up not setting much fruit.....probably due to not having the pollination
> inside the garage or house. On the flip side, the Nectarine doesn't produce
> as well since it hasn't gotten the low chill hours it requires, although this
> variety was created by Texas A&M for this area.
> I've never noticed any of the containers having problems in the summer months
> with air circulation....plastic or otherwise. I do have to leave the saucers
> off of some plants so they do not sit in water during our soaking rains, but
> otherwise have not had a problem. Many of the plants that I've kept in
> containers is largely due to the fact that I'd like to keep them to a certain
> and so that I can move things around.....as in the citrus, shrub
> bougainvillas, etc. Otherwise they could easily be put in the ground. When my
> dream of
> acreage comes true, maybe then.....HA! I wish.
> zone 9
> Texas Gulf Coast
> In a message dated 1/8/2004 11:03:09 AM Central Standard Time,
> email@example.com writes:
> When you refer to plants you take in, are these already in pots or are
> they in the ground and you've previously dug up & potted to take in?
> If you're concerned about cold and they are in pots, you could wrap the
> pots with a bit of insulation. If in the ground, you could add a winter
> I bet you're right about not wanting to be soggy. But would plastic heat
> up too much under summer sunshine, not allow air circulation? Perhaps a
> few perforations wouldn't hurt. I know nothing about Plumerias, just
> guessing. Here, when I want to avoid sogginess, I use a rose cone which
> insulates but does allow for air circulation. Burlap works too, or
> netting that encloses leaves stuffed around the plant.
> I'm not suggesting that zone 5 tactics would necessarily work in Zone 9,
> but possibly some of the reasons behind these tactics would have
> something in common with your situation. I agree, there comes a time
> when hauling things in and out just gets to be too much.
> Support hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!
Support hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!
Other Mailing lists |
Author Index |
Date Index |
Subject Index |