hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

Unauthorized use of a plant doesn't invalidate it's patent

RSS story archive

RE: 'Limerock Ruby'

Hmmm- the Limerock ruby I have that still has blooms on it is near the edge
of a raised brick bed.  The drainage in the bed is only average (and we've
had a lot of rain in the last 2 weeks- so that might do it in), but it
likely does get a chance to dry off, since it is so close to the bricks and
the sidewalk beyond that might help with heat.


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [mailto:owner-gardenchat@hort.net]On
Behalf Of Kitty
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 7:23 AM
To: gardenchat@hort.net
Subject: Re: [CHAT] 'Limerock Ruby'

I believe wet is the problem with Verbena Homestead Purple, too.  Those
under the eaves where they got little water came back.  Those further out,
did not.  The masonry wall is an interesting experiment, but nothing I'd
ever do for any plant.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge Talt" <mtalt@hort.net>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 2:39 AM
Subject: Re: [CHAT] 'Limerock Ruby'

> Well, Kitty, the wet crown thing seems to affect a lot of borderline
> hardy plants - and from what I've heard, it's not just 'wet' crown,
> but 'cold-wet' crown that does the plants in.  So, maybe it will
> survive best in a dry site or raised bed situation.  I have not grown
> Coreopsis for years; ever since where I used to have some sun became
> too shady for them.
> Interesting about the cutting.  Probably because it roots from the
> nodes and forms more roots from 2 nodes than one?
> Tony has said many times about a lot of plants that are borderline
> hardy in northern parts of z7 that keeping them dry over winter is
> the key; they can handle cold, just not wet cold.  I have found this
> pretty impossible in my clay borders, even when they otherwise drain
> well.   Did read, however, on a nursery site whose name escapes me
> just now, but it's in my climate zone, that they had kept a brug
> alive by building an underground masonry wall around 3 sides of it;
> amending the soil so it drained like a bandit and mulching like
> mad....lotta work, but one of these years, I just may give it a
> whirl.  The concrete block wall kept the soil warmer, it seems.
> Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
> mtalt@hort.net
> Editor:  Gardening in Shade
> -----------------------------------------------
> Current Article: Spring Peepers
> http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/shade_gardening
> ------------------------------------------------
> Complete Index of Articles by Category and Date
> http://mtalt.hort.net/article-index.html
> ------------------------------------------------
> All Suite101.com garden topics :
> http://www.suite101.com/topics.cfm/635
> ----------
> > From: kmrsy@comcast.net
> > Marge,
> > Yes I saw his comment and offer in PD catalogue. However, I also
> read
> > comments from him and others in the past year in which they
> explained
> > their reasons for referring to it as an annual. The two items I
> remember
> > are that A) the wet crown thing (appears Ceres read that one too),
> and
> > B) the type of cutting used - they seem to think that when the
> plant
> > comes from a two-node-rooted cutting vs a on-node-rooted cutting,
> it has
> > a better chance for survival.
> >
> >
> > If it doesn't return it's ok. In 2002 a nice size plant cost
> $10-12. In
> > 2003 you could pick a nice one up for $4. It grows so quickly, that
> it
> > does make a useful annual and $4 is a reasonable price for the
> amount of
> > space it covers.
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Support hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!
> http://www.hort.net/funds/

Support hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!

Support hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!

Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index

 © 1995-2015 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement