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Re: 'Limerock Ruby'

I believe wet is the problem with Verbena Homestead Purple, too.  Those
under the eaves where they got little water came back.  Those further out,
did not.  The masonry wall is an interesting experiment, but nothing I'd
ever do for any plant.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marge Talt" <mtalt@hort.net>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 2:39 AM
Subject: Re: [CHAT] 'Limerock Ruby'

> Well, Kitty, the wet crown thing seems to affect a lot of borderline
> hardy plants - and from what I've heard, it's not just 'wet' crown,
> but 'cold-wet' crown that does the plants in.  So, maybe it will
> survive best in a dry site or raised bed situation.  I have not grown
> Coreopsis for years; ever since where I used to have some sun became
> too shady for them.
> Interesting about the cutting.  Probably because it roots from the
> nodes and forms more roots from 2 nodes than one?
> Tony has said many times about a lot of plants that are borderline
> hardy in northern parts of z7 that keeping them dry over winter is
> the key; they can handle cold, just not wet cold.  I have found this
> pretty impossible in my clay borders, even when they otherwise drain
> well.   Did read, however, on a nursery site whose name escapes me
> just now, but it's in my climate zone, that they had kept a brug
> alive by building an underground masonry wall around 3 sides of it;
> amending the soil so it drained like a bandit and mulching like
> mad....lotta work, but one of these years, I just may give it a
> whirl.  The concrete block wall kept the soil warmer, it seems.
> Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
> mtalt@hort.net
> Editor:  Gardening in Shade
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> ----------
> > From: kmrsy@comcast.net
> > Marge,
> > Yes I saw his comment and offer in PD catalogue. However, I also
> read
> > comments from him and others in the past year in which they
> explained
> > their reasons for referring to it as an annual. The two items I
> remember
> > are that A) the wet crown thing (appears Ceres read that one too),
> and
> > B) the type of cutting used - they seem to think that when the
> plant
> > comes from a two-node-rooted cutting vs a on-node-rooted cutting,
> it has
> > a better chance for survival.
> >
> >
> > If it doesn't return it's ok. In 2002 a nice size plant cost
> $10-12. In
> > 2003 you could pick a nice one up for $4. It grows so quickly, that
> it
> > does make a useful annual and $4 is a reasonable price for the
> amount of
> > space it covers.
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