Re: Okay, serious stuff

Cyndi,
For about 35 cents you can get an adapter that has 2 prongs - to go into the
timer - and 3 holes - to accept the surge protector.  Sag can be prevented
by a conveniently placed nail for support.
Kitty

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Johnson Cyndi D Civ AFFTC/ITSR" <cyndi.johnson@edwards.af.mil>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 11:51 AM
Subject: RE: [CHAT] Okay, serious stuff


> Right. In my case the outlet is way high up on the wall of the greenhouse
> (so as to avoid watering it accidentally) and mounted sideways, so the
timer
> has a tendency to try and sag away from the wall. Plus the timers I own
have
> only the two-hole plugs for the output(I'm sure there's a real word for
that
> configuration) and my surge protector needs three.  So for now the surge
> protector has to go to the wall outlet and everything else gets plugged
into
> it.
> But I can probably rig up something that's not dangerous, just need to
give
> it some thought. Maybe while I'm reconfiguring the place I can get my
> husband to rig up another bank of lights. That is probably a job for next
> month after I move everything out, otherwise I'm sure we'll end up
smashing
> a bunch of plants. But next year I could have a better setup.
>
> Cyndi
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net] On
Behalf
> Of james singer
> Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 8:08 AM
> To: gardenchat@hort.net
> Subject: Re: [CHAT] Okay, serious stuff
>
>
> No, no. What I meant was plug the timer into the wall, plug the surge
> protector into the timer, plug the heat mats into the surge protector.
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 9, 2005, at 10:43 AM, Johnson Cyndi D Civ
> AFFTC/ITSR wrote:
>
> > Yes, I already have one of those. It's a little one though. You know
> > how big
> > those timers are, you plug it into one space but it's so big you can't
> > plug
> > anything in next to it. So two of those take up four outlets on the
> > surge
> > protector. I looked at some other ways to arrange it but can't come up
> > with
> > anything that doesn't involve cables draped over half the workbench.
> > I know I could get bigger mats, or heating cables, but I just haven't
> > wrapped my mind around the idea that I want to spend more on the
> > setup. The
> > little heat mats are pretty cheap, comparatively speaking, so I just
> > muddle
> > through. I only start tomatoes and peppers, and a couple herbs,
> > inside. If I
> > ever get motivated I'd also like to do my annual flowers. Maybe
> > lettuces.
> > Salad season is pretty short here.
> >
> > Cyndi
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net] On
> > Behalf
> > Of james singer
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 2:35 AM
> > To: gardenchat@hort.net
> > Subject: Re: [CHAT] Okay, serious stuff
> >
> >
> > Cyndi, consider plugging a surge bar into the timer and heating pads
> > into the surge bar.
> >
> > On Tuesday, March 8, 2005, at 11:59 AM, Johnson Cyndi D Civ AFFTC/ITSR
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I have a little setup for starting seeds in my greenhouse with a
> >> couple heat mats. I don't put anything between the heat mats and the
> >> wood; if it got hot
> >> enough to hurt the wood I would have cooked seeds for sure. I have
> >> been
> >> using the plastic trays without drain holes to put peat pots in. That
> >> way I
> >> can water from underneath until the seedlings are up and ready to be
> >> moved
> >> out. I like the idea of the foil trays, though, the plastic trays tend
> >> to
> >> crack after a couple of seasons and replacing them with the aluminum
> >> would
> >> be easier.
> >> My problem is that I really only need the heat on during the night.
> >> The
> >> greenhouse is plenty warm enough during the day so I have timers on
> >> the mats
> >> to turn them on in the evening. I don't have enough power outlets
> >> available
> >> to plug in more than two timers so I'm limited in the number of seeds
> >> I can
> >> start. I suspect there are better ways to do this but I'm cheap enough
> >> that
> >> I don't want to spend a hundred bucks or so to get a more flexible
> >> system
> >> (this is probably one of those "penny-wise pound-foolish" cases).
> >> I also don't have lights over the seed trays pretty much for the same
> >> reason. That seems to work out okay, although I'm sure they would grow
> >> a
> >> little faster with the extra hours of light.
> >> I don't put any cover over the trays either, the water at the bottom
> >> keeps
> >> everything sufficiently wet. I do have to remember to check every day
> >> and
> >> make sure they're not drying out.
> >>
> >> Cyndi
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net] On
> >> Behalf Of james singer
> >> Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 12:17 PM
> >> To: Chat
> >> Subject: [CHAT] Okay, serious stuff
> >>
> >>
> >> I think I'm going to clean up a big part of my garage workbench and
> >> install a seed-starting station. I've got seed beds outdoors for big
> >> stuff, like palms and loquats, but no really good place to start
> >> small seeds--peppers and cacti and such.
> >>
> >> The bench has fluorescent shop lights overhead and they can be
> >> altered so they can be lowered and raised as need be.
> >>
> >> The top of the bench is 2-inch by 12-inch pine/fir planks. I want to
> >> lay down heating mats or heating coils. What, if anything, should I
> >> put between the mats or coils and the wooden planks?
> >>
> >> I think I will put something like cookie sheets, the kind that are
> >> shallow pans, on top of the mats/coils so I can control both
> >> irrigation and humidity. I do not intend to enclose the growing
> >> medium [some variation on peat pots, unless someone has a better
> >> idea] in a tent or one of those little "greenhouses" since the garage
> >> never gets below 50 degrees.
> >>
> >> What else do I need to consider? What would you do differently? I've
> >> never started seedlings indoors before [bet it shows, eh?].
> >>
> >> What say ye?
> >>
> >> Island Jim
> >> Southwest Florida
> >> 27.0 N, 82.4 W
> >> Hardiness Zone 10
> >> Heat Zone 10
> >> Minimum 30 F [-1 C]
> >> Maximum 100 F [38 C]
> >>
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> >>
> > Island Jim
> > Southwest Florida
> > 27.0 N, 82.4 W
> > Hardiness Zone 10
> > Heat Zone 10
> > Minimum 30 F [-1 C]
> > Maximum 100 F [38 C]
> >
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> >
> >
> Island Jim
> Southwest Florida
> 27.0 N, 82.4 W
> Hardiness Zone 10
> Heat Zone 10
> Minimum 30 F [-1 C]
> Maximum 100 F [38 C]
>
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