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Re: Wilt

First, be sure not to cut or break the tubers before storing, this can lead
to rot.  If you must cut to fit in storage, let the cuts cure for 3 days,
then store.  I have stored them successfully in slightly dampened
vermiculite (so they don't dry out) in a box in the garage.  I prefer to
remove soil that can cause rot or hide insects.  Store between 40 and 50
degrees.  Check once a month or so and remove any rotten ones or sprinkle a
bit of water on the vermiculite if dry, but you don't want it wet.

A Fine Gardening article says they should be stored with the soil on in
flats.  And a Garden Gate article suggest storage in peat moss in a plastic
bag.  In any case you don't want them to dry out.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Chris@widom-assoc.com>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 6:28 AM
Subject: [CHAT] Wilt

> Since last week was my first week back at school, I've been buried in
> paperwork and have been trying to keep my head above water in regards to
> e-mail!  No time to comment on anything, but I've enjoyed eavesdropping!
> I need advise about planting other plants where I've grown tomatoes that
> some sort of wilt, possibly bacterial. I had been using a small vegetable
> plot, moving the tomato plants around from year to year.  The last two
> I've had crop failure. I plan to grow my tomatoes in a different garden
> year, but I 'm not sure what I can grow in the old plot. I was thinking of
> putting some of my daylilies there.
> Does anyone have experience with the above?
> Chris
> Long Island, NY
> Zone 7a (Average min temp 50 - 00)
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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> http://www.hort.net/funds/

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  • Follow-Ups:
    • RE: Wilt
      • From: "Donna" <justme@prairieinet.net>
  • References:
    • Wilt
      • From: Chris@widom-assoc.com

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