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Re: rototilling

I have not travelled around the world implementing my system. More important, though, are the principles of soil science
involved. There's no reason why the system should not work everywhere. I'd be very interested to learn what about particular
conditions harfway around the globe would make it not work. If so, perhaps I or we could tweak it to make it adaptable.

One question, Jim. Have you read my book? Rather than going back and forth in generalizations, I'd rather hone in on
specifics (e.g. what about the soil in a particular place makes WEEDLESS GARDENING unfeasible). I'd even be willing to send
you a copy of the book if you don't have one.

One other thing to keep in mind: WEEDLESS GARDENING is more than just about dealing with weeds; it also creates, in the long
and short run, a soil that is richer in humus and more microbially active, all important to more sustainable agriculture.

Lee Reich, PhD

Jim Kennard wrote:

> Please give a chronology of the places throughout the world wherein you have
> personally implemented these strategies of yours.  I am very interested in
> the documentation of practical experience among the 90% whom I seek to
> serve.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Kennard
> www.foodforeveryone.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Reich, PhD" <springtown@netstep.net>
> To: <Gardenwriters@topica.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 9:31 AM
> Subject: Re: [GWL]: rototilling
>
> > Briefly, nowhere in my book do I suggest herbicides as a substitute for
> tillage. It is feasible to abandon tillage by
> > planting in permanent beds to avoid soil compaction, which is one thing
> tillage cures. Permanent bed planting (and
> > non-tillage) are, obviously, not my invention, but something that has been
> practiced successfully in various parts of the
> > world for centuries.
> >
> > Excerpting, again, from my book, here is what I do recommend:
> >
> >  "You cannot, of course, just banish the word rototill, dig, and plow from
> your vocabulary, throw some mulch on the ground,
> > and carry on with your gardening as before. These practices, for maximum
> benefit, need to be integrated into a WEEDLESS
> > GARDENING system. The bare bones of WEEDLESS GARDENING, elaborated upon in
> coming chapters, includes four components.
> > .MINIMIZE SOIL DISRUPTION to preserve the soil's natural layering. Soil
> should not be turned over by hand, by rototiller, or
> > by plow. Even when setting transplants, shrubs, and trees in the ground,
> take care not to disrupt the natural layering of the
> > soil any more than necessary.
> >  . PROTECT THE SOIL SURFACE with some sort of covering to temper  the
> effects of hot sun and raindrops on the surface and to
> > smother small weed seedlings. What to use depends on availability of
> various materials, your style of garden, and the kinds
> > of plants you grow. In some situations, living plants might offer the
> needed protection.
> >  . AVOID SOIL COMPACTION by keeping off planted areas with feet,
> wheelbarrows, garden carts, and tractors. This is done by
> > designating separate areas for plants and areas for traffic. The design of
> trafficked areas-paths usually-varies with the
> > design of the garden and the kind of traffic expected.
> >  . USE DRIP IRRIGATION. Watering is not always needed, but when it is
> required regularly, drip is the way to go. Drip
> > irrigation quenches plants' thirst at a rate close to their actual needs.
> It pinpoints the water where it's needed instead of
> > wastefully wetting paths and weeds in unplanted areas."
> >
> > All of this, with the exception of the optional drip irrigation, is
> feasible throughout the world and socioeconomic strata.
> >
> > Lee Reich, PhD
> >
> >
> > Jim Kennard wrote:
> >
> > > May I address the issues of Tilling v.s. non-tilling and the use of
> > > Mycorrhizal on behalf of 90% of the world's population, who do not have
> the
> > > luxuries we here in America enjoy?
> > >
> > > In many parts of the world the only practical way to get rid of weeds is
> to
> > > cultivate the ground - whether with plow, harrow, tiller, shovel, or
> > > whatever.  Herbicides are out of the question due to their cost, and
> hoe-ing
> > > or weeding by hand are not effective.  And for the same financial
> reasons
> > > commercially purchased Mycorrhizal is also not a realistic possibility
> for
> > > them.
> > >
> > > We have gone into many villages where the native people were barely
> > > subsisting on a single vegetable, such as sweet potato, that took them
> > > almost 2 years to grow, and where the weeds were ubiquitous and the
> children
> > > nearly starving.
> > >
> > > In just 6 to 12 weeks, using good basic cultural practices such as
> proper
> > > cultivation of the soil, preparation of planting beds, feeding natural
> > > mineral nutrients to the plants, proper watering, and weeding  the
> people
> > > were enjoying a wide assortment of healthy vegetables the likes of which
> > > they had never even seen before.
> > >
> > > And in doing so we have introduced health and prosperity to thousands of
> > > families who were despairing of even having food to eat.  In bringing
> this
> > > to your attention I'm not asking for plaudits, only understanding of
> what I
> > > consider to be the larger and more important issues - of life and death
> that
> > > are happening all around us!
> > >
> > > I would plead with those of you who are educating the wealthy 10% to
> tell
> > > them the plight of the other 90%!  And then encourage your readers to
> help
> > > others learn and obtain a healthy living standard in the most practical
> way
> > > possible.  And what is that?  Go and Teach and Show them the way!  Our
> > > projects, for example, are for a minimum of three months - full time,
> with 2
> > > hours a day in the class and 4+ hours in the garden, and our students
> finish
> > > with a practical working knowledge of vegetable production, from
> seedling
> > > production to selling their produce, and their income is increased
> manifold.
> > >
> > > How can we sleep smugly in our beds and bicker over trivia while most of
> the
> > > world is starving?  Please look at the charitable Food For Everyone
> > > Foundation's website at www.foodforeveryone.org and see if you can do
> > > something to make a difference for good in the world.
> > >
> > > Sorry for the lecture, but thanks for "listening"
> > >
> > > Jim Kennard, President
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Lee Reich, PhD" <springtown@netstep.net>
> > > To: <Gardenwriters@topica.com>
> > > Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 5:08 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [GWL]: rototilling
> > >
> > > > On Lon Rombough's suggestion, rather than keep writing back about
> tilling
> > > and non-tilling, I've instead excerpted a short
> > > > part of my book, WEEDLESS GARDENING, where I talk about benefits of
> > > leaving soil undisturbed. For background, the WEEDLESS
> > > > GARDENING I talk about is not only the title of the book but also the
> four
> > > part system for taking care of the soil. The book
> > > > is available for only $9, but if I feel the need more words from this
> book
> > > will ply the electronic thoroughfares. What I have
> > > > done in WEEDLESS GARDENING is to try and translate some soil science
> into
> > > something practical, readable, and backed up by my
> > > > own thirty years of getting my fingers into the dirt... whoops, soil.
> > > >
> > > > Lee Reich, PhD
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > THE BENEFITS
> > > >  The most obvious appeal of WEEDLESS GARDENING is dispensing with the
> > > annual ritual of turning over soil. No more wrestling a
> > > > rototiller up and down garden rows. No more making arrangements for
> > > someone to plow. Gone are the repeated thuds of your
> > > > garden spade coming up against rocks in rocky soil. Forget about
> needing
> > > that "iron back, with a hinge in it," suggested as
> > > > the ideal anatomy for a gardener by Charles Dudley Warner in My Summer
> in
> > > a Garden (1870).
> > > >  Dispensing with digging also means being able to get plants and seeds
> > > into the ground sooner. One reason for digging in
> > > > spring is to kill existing vegetation, be it weeds, a deliberately
> planted
> > > "cover crop," or, for a new garden, lawn grass.
> > > > That digging is followed by a burst of biological activity in the soil
> as
> > > bacteria and fungi, fueled by a shot of air, gobble
> > > > up chopped up roots, stems, and leaves. It's too much commotion for
> seeds
> > > and small plants, so planting must be delayed for a
> > > > couple of weeks until microbial activity settles down. Another run
> over
> > > the ground is sometimes needed to break up the soil
> > > > and plants even more, causing a delay of another week or two.
> > > >  Not having to dig the soil in spring also means not having to delay
> > > planting because of wet soil. Digging a wet clay soil
> > > > transforms it into a compact material better suited for sculpture than
> > > plant growth. The frustration is twofold; planting is
> > > > delayed until the soil is dry enough to dig, and after planting, you
> must
> > > wait for rain to get seeds and plants growing. Skip
> > > > the digging and all that's needed in spring is to drop seeds or nestle
> > > plants into the ground.
> > > >  Leaving soil undisturbed in spring even helps plants quench their
> thirst
> > > later in the season. Earthworms, roots of various
> > > > dimensions, even the action of freezing and thawing all work together
> to
> > > create interconnecting large and small pores within
> > > > which air and water move and new roots grow. Gravity quickly empties
> large
> > > channels of excess water, drawing air in, yet
> > > > small pores of capillary dimensions cling to water against the pull of
> > > gravity. As long as these pores stay intact, water can
> > > > move within them down, sideways, even up, to replace water that nearby
> > > roots drink in.
> > > >  Another benefit of not turning the soil is to keep organic materials
> on
> > > the surface. There, they can provide soft landing
> > > > for raindrops, allowing moisture to soak in rather than run off and
> water
> > > your lawn or your neighbor's garden. Organic
> > > > materials at the soil's surface also temper the effects of winter cold
> and
> > > the sun's heat, and slow water evaporation. If you
> > > > mix organic materials into the soil or bury them down deep, they
> cannot do
> > > their job of protecting the soil surface.
> > > >  Not tilling also avoids creating a so-called plowpan, or hardened
> layer
> > > within the soil that impedes drainage. Plowpans form
> > > > when rototillers or plows are used at the same depth season after
> season,
> > > causing soil compaction just beneath the depth of
> > > > tillage. Perhaps the greatest benefit of leaving the soil undisturbed
> is
> > > that it preserves soil organic matter, including
> > > > humus, the touchstone of any great garden soil. Digging, rototilling,
> or
> > > plowing puts such a shot of oxygen into the soil
> > > > that microbial activity is stimulated to the point of too rapidly
> burning
> > > up organic matter. It literally disappears into
> > > > thin air, most of it becoming carbon dioxide and water vapor.
> > > >  It's not that these microbes should starve. After all, plant foods
> are
> > > released and a healthy microbial population is
> > > > supported only as organic matter is gobbled up. Problems arise though
> when
> > > organic matter is burned too fast, which happens
> > > > when soils are tilled. In untilled soils topped with organic
> materials,
> > > the materials are consumed at a rate that doesn't
> > > > outstrip the rate at which they are replenished.
> > > >
> > > > DO PLANTS LIKE IT?
> > > >  All the information offered so far has sung the praises of WEEDLESS
> > > GARDENING for you, me, and the soil, but what about the
> > > > plants? How do delphiniums, rose bushes, and bean and tomato plants
> feel
> > > about growing in soil that is never turned over or
> > > > stirred up, yet is perpetually blanketed with compost, wood chips, or
> some
> > > other organic mulch? The answer is-they like it.
> > > >  After all, an undisturbed soil blanketed with organic mulch becomes
> > > increasingly rich in humus, one byproduct of the
> > > > decomposition of organic matter. Humus is not a single compound but a
> > > witch's brew of stuff beneficial to plants. It is to
> > > > plants what a vitamin rich salad is to you and me-not a concentrated
> food,
> > > but one offering a wide spectrum of nutrients and
> > > > other good things. (In addition to nutrients coming from the humus
> itself,
> > > it also contains substances that help nutrients
> > > > already in the soil become more accessible to plants.) Humus is also
> > > serves as the bulk in a plant's "diet," fluffing up soil
> > > > with air and at the same time holding water like a sponge. Humus even
> > > helps plants fight off pests with protective compounds
> > > > and by supporting friendly microorganisms that fend off pathogens.
> > > >
> > > > JEFF LOWENFELS wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > re rototilling vs. not:
> > > > >
> > > > > I surely hope that no one is suggestion you can't get a great garden
> if
> > > you
> > > > > rototill or if you use fertilizers. That is not the point. Obviously
> we
> > > all
> > > > > have had personal experiences and know that you can have great
> gardens
> > > doing
> > > > > both. And I think we would all agree that putting organics into the
> soil
> > > is
> > > > > the only way to go as it helps build nice healthy soils. And I think
> we
> > > can
> > > > > all agree that the organic matter you put into a garden when you
> > > rototill
> > > > > is, after all, only as good as the microbes, bacteria, shredders and
> > > others
> > > > > who decay it into humus.
> > > > >
> > > > > Where a "Scientific Gardener" would depart is in the value of
> keeping
> > > the
> > > > > miles and miles of fungi in the average garden
> > > > > intact and not reducing the populations of bacteria, nematodes,
> > > protozoa,
> > > > > worms, microarthopods, microarthopods etc in the soil which is an
> > > obvious
> > > > > result when you rototill. If you are like many gardeners and you run
> > > over
> > > > > your garden beds two or three times to get is all uniform and clean,
> > > then
> > > > > you actually kill off much of it.
> > > > >
> > > > > And, I suppose, a really Scientific Gardener would work out the math
> and
> > > > > conclude that each year, despite the addition of organics into the
> soil,
> > > > > there is a net carbon loss. Sooner or later the game is over like it
> is
> > > in
> > > > > many parts of the world and like it is getting to be in many parts
> of
> > > the US
> > > > > Then you HAVE to use fertilizers and the only organics in the soil
> are
> > > those
> > > > > added each year IF there is any soilfoodweb left to decay them.
> > > > >
> > > > > As for big gardens, surely Ruth Stout is an example. If you must
> have
> > > nice
> > > > > neat rows, simply pulling a board through the soil or a v plow would
> be
> > > > > better than rototilling. "Drill" gardening is another answer. You
> make a
> > > > > hole for the plant and only disturb a tiny fraction of the garden.
> It is
> > > so
> > > > > much less work and for big farms, there are mechanical planters that
> use
> > > > > this principle.
> > > > >
> > > > > Why would one want to go through all the work to rototill?  I guess
> I
> > > have
> > > > > to ask, then, why do YOU roto till? I am not trying to be cute here.
> > > You
> > > > > surely don't have to. Many of us have gardens which prove that. Why
> do
> > > you?
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheers,
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeff L
> > > > >
> > > > > ______________________________________________
> > > > > PLANT A ROW FOR THE HUNGRY: Through PAR, over 3 million pounds of
> food
> > > have
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> > > you
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