RE: [Rose-list] was: hardiness/now vegative reproduction

**"* A* <j*@classic.msn.com>**

Hi Joanie:

First, I live in Marion (next to Cedar Rapids), not Ames. No big deal. I've 
lived in many places so one more town makes no difference.

To answer your questions:

(1) I do strip off a few leaves from the bottom before dipping the cutting in 
rooting hormone. If you have a large rabbit or rodent population, it's wise to 
place chicken wire over them to reduce damage caused by those varmits. Rabbits 
are my main problem. Every time I turn around there seem to be 50 more hopping 
through my perennial borders. I have to use wire cages to protect young shrubs 
and trees. They enjoy nibbling on new daylily and hosta growth. And they're 
particularly fond of roses, which I find unusual because of the thorns.

(2 and 3) I leave the cuttings in the bed until the following spring. I cover 
them completely with leaves to protect from heaving caused by freezing and 
thawing. In April, usually around the middle of the month (depending on the 
weather), I remove the leaves to see how the cuttings are doing, if any have 
rotted or wilted. I always lose a few, but many survive and have leaf buds 
forming by this time. As the weather warms, I gradually remove all of the 
leaves. When the soil is workable, I transplant to permanent locations. If the 
weather turns suddenly hot and sunny, I place a couple wood shingles next to 
the young plants to help protect them for a week or so to help get them 
acclimated. Fertilize to get them off to a good start. The care that follows 
is like for other roses.

I also root shrub roses by taking a long cane, making a small cut and burying 
it in the soil, leaving it attached to the parent plant. By the following 
spring, roots have begun to sprout. I leave the new plant attached to the 
parent until early fall, when I separate and replant elsewhere. Winter 
protection is the same as mentioned above, including anti-rabbit cages. The 
reason I wait until early fall to separate is because sometimes root formation 
is slow and not enough roots have formed by spring to sustain the plant.

I grow mainly shrub and floribunda roses. I've never had much luck with the 
teas; the only one remaining is Mr. Lincoln.

Hope this helps.

John 

----------
From: 	rose-list-admin@mallorn.com on behalf of Jeaa1224@aol.com
Sent: 	Thursday, May 13, 1999 8:00 AM
To: 	rose-list@mallorn.com
Subject: 	Re: [Rose-list] was: hardiness/now vegative reproduction

John:

I'm in a similar hardiness zone (Chicago area) as you are in Ames - and I'm 
intrigued
with your propogation method of roses. I'd love to try this too but I have a 
couple of 
questions: 

1.   you don't strip off the bottom leaves but rather dip the leaves and all 
in rooting     
      hormone?

2.   do you leave the rose cuttings in this nursery bed over the winter and 
replant
      the following spring into their permanent beds?

3.   what special care do you provide them going into their first winter if 
they are left
      in their original beds?

Thanks - Joanie

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