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RE: Belgian fences

> It's great to hear from you again - and I'd love to know the tricks
you
> mentioned to
> get your apple trees to fruit in the center of the x's.

This Belgian fences article can be found in "National Gardening"
magazine of April 1989.  Here it say's: To encourage dormant buds to
develop into fruiting buds, rather than vegetative shoots, "nick or
notch" into the bark just "below" a leaf bud during the growing
season. If you "notch" just above the bud, it will produce a
vegetative branch. (I haven't yet tryed it.) Looking at the picture,
the notch is just into the bark and about the size of the bud. 

> Also, can I move a couple of roses this fall or is it best to wait
until
> spring (gad,
> that's a long way away)? Chicago's still has 70's in the day, 50's
at night.

I move NEW roses just about anytime of the year at dusk, early
morning or on an overcast day. It is best to wait till fall. The
longer the rose has been at that location, the harder it is to move.
Most move well if under four or five years old. Be sure to water
every day for a week or more, and move on a cool day. You may have to
trim up to 1/2 of the bush, I let the rose deside what needs to go.
If it wilts, I cut it. Also you might have some "transplant" solution
on hand. 

> Sarah Van Fleet... 6' and that's in her first year.

Wow, that is some growth. 
Is she bushy or leggy ?

> Golden Wings

Oh, had to look this one up, a Pimpinellifoliae. I just love their
leaves.

>  test for ph 

Our extension used to test for pH, I not sure it they still do. I
bought some cheap soil pH tests, wonder if they are a waste of my
time ????

Sincerely,       
Carleen Rosenlund of Rainier, Oregon -USDA-8
Sweetbriar - Keeper of Sheep & Old Roses
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