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Rebar/Jeff Balls Hoop Greenhouse Cover more

Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html

>With the rebar at the 1/3 and 2/3 parts of my long sides.  (about 2 1/2 feet
in from each end) stopped all wandering.

*At 12 Ft long, 1/3 & 2/3 is every 4Ft interval to my mind.  Just waht Jeff
Ball suggests.  And reasonable for bed wall retentiomn too.

>While the 8-10 inches of rebar in the soil may not be a major stop to things
moving it did prevent my beds from moving when initally placed.  Later once
filled with soil (compost et al) they did not want to move again.

*This may depend, as some may initially dig or even double-dig (smart, once)
before the bed walls are in place to not have to dig near them with the
hazards of ruining not fully hardened paint, and getting extra few inches of
soft dirt for edgeward plants.

>In my case I drilled a hole (long bit...) through all the timbers slightly
smaller then the rebar.  (on second thoughts 1/2 inch rebar may
be too large.  Perhaps I used 3/8... I will have to measure...)

*Long bit, but cool idea!!!
BTW, remembered as last post was fired off, I forgot to thank you Ron, for the
rebar idea.
I'd say 1/4 inch is fine, and has the benefit that a 3/8 " dia hole is a
cheaper bit, and said 3/8" bit (some of you might call this the drill, which
is actually the motor/chuck unit) will be a drill/chuck size many more will
have.  Ron, would you be so kind when you measure, to see if 3/8 rebar needs a
3/8 hole, or 1/2 or inbetween???  Altho I'm thinking 1/4 rebar in my head.

>I then used a small masonary hammer (like a tiny sledge hammer)
to pound the rebar in.  I finished with the rebar slighly indented
in the surface.

*Good idea, will return to it.

>This gives me no way to fasten to the rebar as it is completely
incased in wood.  I like Jeff Balls idea on how to do the hoop
houses.

*Well, he DOES want the PVC hoops to be equally spaced and I agree. (I am a
fuss-buget in this hind of trivial measurement stuff.)  You could ADD a short
rebar, or a lag screw in the edge, and dehead it and grind the top to debur
the edge, at "proper" distances.  (Ask if any is unclear.)  If rebar added,
say n interference fit hole 6" deep, then a hole 2-3" deep, wider, which the
PVC fits into, and add a weep hole, since this hole isn't thru.  If any of you
drill all the way thru or into, do "paint/treat" this hole better than you did
with the rest of the wood.  It is a weak spot, humidity-wise as well as
thinner wood.  But did you see what we just did?

With 2" lumber, and 1" or less PVC hoop, just drill in 2" deep and add a weep
hole of 1/4" dia.  I did want to ask, what arguemenmts we could use to
determine whether inside or outside PVC was better when locating the hoops.  I
tentatively decided it may be complicated, depending on climactic factors, but
outside got 51% so far, with me.  This new "Center" approach weakens the wood
a bit, but I like it.  My last thought is accurately installing the rebar
(Using a template), leaving about 8" sticking up.  And placing the borad over
it,  This means the borad is predrilled for precision placed rebar, and has no
hole to catch water.  Slightly more esthetic, but soo much harder than Ron's
way.

>I have the 1.5 inch PVC and 1.5 inch electrical
clamps ready to go.  Just need to actually install them.

>I am still trying to figure out exactly what PVC to use for the
hoops themselves, as we have no flexible PVC here other
than stuff that is way to flimsy.  It looks like I might use
thin wall schedule 40 PVC, but I have not made up my mind yet.

*The black stuff he uses is rated (I'm fairly sure) for garden and "wastes"
but not drinking.  Try a sprinkler company.

>I want to get the hoop up this month and  throw some transplants out early to
see what happens.  I will have a second batch of transplants growing inside
just in case I start too early.  Wish me luck!
Ron Souliere

*The man does plan... cool.  I'll ask ColdGH@onelist etc about the PVC.
Gardentalk@egroups listed a PVC fitting site also.
Bill

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