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Re: Rebar/Jeff Ball's Hoop Greenhouse Cover

Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html

Covers for rebar:  At my school they put in rebar stakes to tie flourescent
tape to so kids wouldn't fall in the holes dug for trees.  The rebar was
capped with hard plastic flourescent orange hemispheres that sort of wedge
on over the end.  Haven't seen them at Lowe's or Home Depot, but maybe a
construction company would know where to order them.  

Vasha
AL 7.5

At 02:58 PM 2/7/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html
>
>You guys have some great ideas, but let me throw this one out (maybe not
>great, but I like it). If you leave the rebar sticking above the boards a
>few inches, you can put the ends of PVC pipe over the rebar to make hoops.
>When not in use for that, the projecting rebar would be dangerous, and
>should be covered by short lengths of PVC pipe. Margaret L
>
>
>
>>> Bill Replied
>>> *It occurs to me that if the rebar is 2" below the board top edge, and you
>>put
>>> PVC over it, this covers the rebar end, looks 'finished', holds the PVC in
>>> place for Jeff Ball's "hoop/tunnel' micro green house covers at the same
>>time.
>>>  Cool.  He had them all held in place with clamps... one big hassle
>>removed...
>>> in fact, 2 or 3!
>>> Bill
>>
>>I orginally used the rebar because the 8 foot long landscape
>>timbers I was using would warp and creep around.  Using 8 inch
>>screws worked but at $1.25 each and needing to use multiples
>>would quickly become expensive.
>>With the rebar (each piece around 50 cents, precut) at the
>>1/3 and 2/3 parts of my long sides.  (about 2 1/2 feet in from
>>each end) stopped all wandering.  While the 8-10 inches of
>>rebar in the soil may not be a major stop to things moving it did
>>prevent my beds from moving when initally placed.  Later once
>>filled with soil (compost et al) they did not want to move again.
>>In my case I drilled a hole (long bit...) through all the timbers slightly
>>smaller then the rebar.  (on second thoughts 1/2 inch rebar may
>>be too large.  Perhaps I used 3/8... I will have to measure...)
>>I then used a small masonary hammer (like a tiny sledge hammer)
>>to pound the rebar in.  I finished with the rebar slighly indented
>>in the surface.  The tension of the rebar (rebar has very rough
>>sides) on the wood holds the timbers together quite well.  They
>>don't move (relative to the other timbers) up down or sideways.
>>(at least not in the last 3 years or so)
>>
>>This gives me no way to fasten to the rebar as it is completely
>>incased in wood.  I like Jeff Balls idea on how to do the hoop
>>houses.  I have the 1.5 inch PVC and 1.5 inch electrical
>>clamps ready to go.  Just need to actually install them.
>>I am still trying to figure out exactly what PVC to use for the
>>hoops themselves, as we have no flexible PVC here other
>>than stuff that is way to flimsy.  It looks like I might use
>>thin wall schedule 40 PVC, but I have not made up my mind
>>yet.  3 months to go till last frost date.  I want to get the hoops
>>up this month and  throw some transplants out early to see what
>>happens.  I will have a second batch of transplants growing inside
>>just in case I start too early.  Wish me luck!  Ron Souliere
>>
>>
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