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Re: Tomates - no fruit, no blloms

Square Foot Gardening List - http://myweb.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html

At 09:59 AM 6/27/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Square Foot Gardening List - http://myweb.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html
>
>Susan,
>Considering that you live in hot Florida where the nights are probably in
>the 70's and low 80's this time of year, lack of fruit set is normal.
>Tomatoes set fruit in a narrow temperature range--about 55F to 72F at night.
>If daytime temperatures are excessive (over 92F), pollen becomes sterile,
>too.  There are some varieties bred to set fruit in higher
>temperatures--Heatwave is one.  And, cherry tomatoes will set fruit in
>hotter weather, too.  I'm afraid your paste tomatoes have missed their
>window of opportunity to set fruit--that's why you should get them in the
>ground in late January or early Feb. in your climate.  But, if you can keep
>the plants alive and healthy until fall, you should have perfect
>temperatures again for fruit set.  Or, you could yank out the plants, set in
>something that loves heat like okra, and replant tomatoes in early
>September.
>Doreen Howard
>Zone 4b, and a refugee from hot, steamy Zone 9b
>
I enjoyed your article in Horticulture (July/August 2000), Doreen. I am
constantly amazed at how differently tomatoes grow and produce in different
parts of the U.S. Dr. Carolyn Male's "100 Heirloom Varieties for the
American Garden" includes many that have been a fizzle for me in
southwestern Idaho. Anna's Russian, Cuostralee, Aunt Ruby's German Green,
and Eva Purple Ball, for instance, have produced just a handful of so-so
tomatoes. OTOH, Pruden's Purple, Burbank, Amish Paste, Early Large Red and
others have produced wonderfully. 

I recall that you moved to zone 4 quite some time ago. What's the lead time
for Horticulture magazine articles? Thanks, Margaret L


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