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Re: Corn Spacing

Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html

Olin

Thanks for the information.  What zone are you in?  I am in zone 8 or 9,
depending on different parts of the property. (micro-climates)

Man it gets hot in Phoenix!!!

How many times of day do you have to water to keep things alive.

This year we had a mild summer.  Hew!  We got off lucky!

I live in Fresno, Ca.  practically smack in the middle of California.

Do you think it is too late for me to plant corn here?  Our first frost is
hard to tell.  We can go for a whole year without frost too.

Not last year, it actually snowed two times!  Everyone lost things they have
had for years.

I bet you guys back east are laughing at me right now!

Please advise.
Peg
-----Original Message-----
From: Olin Miller <millero@worldnet.att.net>
To: sqft list <sqft@listbot.com>
Date: Friday, September 13, 2019 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: Corn Spacing


>Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html
>
>Sorry.  Should have mentioned again we live in Phoenix AZ, low desert,
where
>our average 1st frost date is November 25 but it can vary from November 3
to
>none at all.  There was a period 20 years ago when we had 1,897 consecutive
>frost-free days.  For warm season crops (corn, beans, squash), we have a
>spring growing season and a fall growing season.  Our cool season crops
>(leafy, fleshy stems, roots, peas) are grown during the wintertime
beginning
>in late September - sort of compensates for the long, hot summers.
>
>You are correct about it taking longer to mature in the fall.  In the
>spring, it's pretty close to the dates on the seed packet but in the fall
it
>typically takes 15 - 20 per cent longer.  I think it is because the seed
>packet days are calculated based on accumulated heat units at the
Midwestern
>cornbelt location at the time of year it is grown there.  In the fall, it's
>cooler here so it takes longer to accumulate the requisite number of heat
>units.  Some states, e.g. AZ, use a more complex formula to determine days
>to maturity.which includes factors other than the specified number of hours
>above some temperature (hours of daylight, for example which are also
>shorter and thus contribute to extending maturity time.
>
>As to varieties, there are lots of choices.  What you would want would
>depend on your growing season, the available space and your own flavor or
>color preferences.  There is a article at
>http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html which describes the differences
>in the su,.se, sh,  op types.
>
>Olin
>====================
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Kevin Henson <kevinh@thesocket.com>
>Sent: Monday, September 13, 1999 8:53 AM
>Subject: Re: Corn Spacing
>
>
>> Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html
>>
>> Olin,
>>
>> ..
>> I didn't realize you could grow corn this late in the season.
>>
>> I looked corn up in the book, and it says the last planting should be
>> planted 2 to 4 weeks before the first freeze.  I also read it takes
longer
>> for the harvest the later the crop, about 12 to 13 weeks. Is this because
>of
>> the heat change?  I have always thought you needed heat for corn.
>>
> > ...
>> Are there better varieties to choose from?
>>
>> Peg
>
>
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