We recently discussed that and that won't work.  Iris also need light while they are chilling so unless you can chill and keep them lit they will likely rot in storage. Iris need to root into the soil to keep them moist and so that when they bloom they don't fall over.  They are stems, not bulbs which have a special chartacteristic to be able to go completely dormant.  Iris don't truly go dormant, except perhaps the bulbous ones like Xiphiums and some of the Aril types.  When we are talking about dormancy in Iris we are describing a period of no growth but there are still leaves visible.

-----Original Message-----
From: "D. George" <23bd445d1@rewrite.hort.net>
Sent: Dec 3, 2014 6:45 PM
To: "iris@hort.net" , "iris-digest@hort.net"
Subject: Re: [iris] iris DIGEST V1 #380

It seems to be impossible to unsubscribe to this group so I'll just ask a ? and see if anyone can advise me. I planted bearded iris bulbs last spring and they all put out leaves but no flowers. I'm wondering if it would help to dig them up as someone here in my area suggested- and keep them in the fridge for a couple of months. Do they need that cold period in order to set flowers? I hope someone is familiar with south Fla's zone 10a growing habits DG

On Wednesday, December 3, 2014 12:52 PM, iris DIGEST wrote:



iris DIGEST        Wednesday, December 3 2014        Volume 01 : Number 380



In this issue:

        RE: [iris] Re:  HYB: rebloom breeding

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 15:13:32 -0500
From: Chuck Chapman
Subject: RE: [iris] Re:  HYB: rebloom breeding

If it was a PV (preferential vernalization ) type it would  rebloom
and perhaps continue for next year according to how well it was
growing. Then stop. If a fall cyclic that  didn't have time, then once
and stop.

Chuck Chapman


- -----Original Message-----
From: Barb Johnson <73d454751@rewrite.hort.net>
To: iris-talk
Sent: Tue, Dec 2, 2014 2:02 pm
Subject: RE: [iris] Re:  HYB: rebloom breeding

I am curious -- if I were to pot up a rebloomer and take it indoors for
the winter, would it rebloom because it stays warm year round?

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---------
Barb Johnson         mailto:barbjohnson_62@hotmail.com
Near Springfield, SW Missouri USA   
AIS, HIPS, MIS, TBIS, ISO
USDA Zone 5b         AIS Region 18 (KS & MO)
American Iris Society website: http://www.irises.org
iris-talk/Mallorn archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/iris-talk/
iris-photos/Mallorn archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/iris-photos/
AIS Checklist Data: http://www.irisregister.com
Iris Encyclopedia (Wiki): http://wiki.irises.org/bin/view



> To: iris@hort.net
> Subject: Re: [iris] Re:  HYB: rebloom breeding
> Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 12:16:53 -0500
> From: db4f61431@rewrite.hort.net
>
> Growth of increases indicate that bud set has occurred, so fans
would
> be mature.
>
> Linda,  I very, very, much doubt that you will get any bloom from
> Preferential vernalization rebloomers in your climate, unless  it
is on
> first year plants primed in  zone 9 garden.  The range of  growth
time
> after rebloom will be in a very narrow range, selected by millions
of
> years of evolution. Breeding can  make changes on length of 
growth
> time, but it would need a very systematic approach and  you would
need
> a  zone 9 garden  to work on it.  Might be able to change it by a
week,
> perhaps two, but not much more then that. Evolution has very
carefully
> selected a limited range. The early ones will have been eliminated
from
> gene pool by death. So will the later ones. Genes will have been
> eliminated. So only way to get a change that would be useful to
you
> would be  by a mutation. Then you would need a means to be able to
> identify  that this has happened.  And it would likely need  two
> mutations to line up. the one producing signal and the other one
> responding to it.  And if they are recessive, how  will you find
them?
>
> Also consider that the plants with PV  evolved in an environment
with
>  winters seldom going below freezing.  So will be strongly
associated
> with  tender genes as far as cold weather is concerned.
>
> I did try Belvi Queen several times.  Didn't thrive here.
>
> Chuck Chapman
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Linda Mann <101l@rewrite.hort.net>
> To: iris <iris@hort.net>
> Sent: Tue, Dec 2, 2014 10:37 am
> Subject: Re: [iris] Re:  HYB: rebloom breeding
>
> Thanks again, Chuck.
>
> Could you elaborate on this a bit more (again)?  Is the presence
of
> baby
> fans starting a good indicator of mother fan maturity?  I might
have
> enough energy to note that ;-)  Are there other ways to tell
whether or
> not a fan is mature?
>
> On 12/1/2014 7:52 PM, Chuck Chapman wrote:
> > observe maturity of  fans .
>
> Thanks for joining in, Francelle. Good to be reminded that rebloom
> requirements (genetic and environment) vary a lot for different
> breeders.  The three of us (you, me, and Chuck) pretty much cover
the
> range of challenging climates - hot dry, erratic hot wet, and cold
> short
> growing season.
>
> Like you, I have some different options for getting rebloom because
> unlike Chuck, I do have a long growing season.  So some of the
> preferential/CA rebloomer genes can give me additional (re)bloom,
<if>
> I
> can combine those genes with the fastest maturing genes and ones
that
> can continue rapid maturity in humidity and heat.
>
> I haven't tried hard to work with your Belvi Queen seed babies
yet, but
> hope to have something suitable to mix with them this coming year.

> Down
> to 2 of the strongest growing survivors.  I've put pollen on them,
but
> it's been a low priority up till now, so haven't really worked at
it,
> and no luck so far.  Let me know if you'd like starts.
>
> Chuck, have you grown Belvi Queen?  It's been the most
> reliable/persistent summer bloomer here, not fertile for me either
way
> so far.  Not as weak a grower as Tea Leaves, and comes from GP
Brown &
> Gibson breeding, so should have at least a chance at rebloom for
you.
>
> Linda Mann zone 7, back to balmy spring weather again, lows in the
mid
> to upper 40s, highs upper 50s to low 60s.  Grow newly planted
irises,
> grow. ;-)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

                     

------------------------------

End of iris DIGEST V1 #380
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