iris@hort.net
- Subject: Re: Iris In Florida
- From: C* C* <d*@rewrite.hort.net>
- Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2014 21:40:55 -0500
I haven't sen any information on problems with rotting or need for light while vernalizing. If any info scientific or personal experience I'd like to know about it.
Some iris will go endo-dormant. The I. aphylla do and a few other species seem to also go endo-dormant. During unfavorable growing conditions all iris will go eco-dormant.
I planted some I. aphhylla into pots after they went endo-dormant. Kept them under lights all winter, no growth. Planted then outside in spring. Went all year without growth. Without vernalization they were unable to come out of dormancy. That is a form of endo-dormancy. That is they triggered into dormancy from environmental conditions (short day-length for aphylla, and can't come out until they get the proper environmental signals.
Chuck Chapman -----Original Message----- From: Paul Archer <233d65621@rewrite.hort.net> To: iris <iris@hort.net> Sent: Wed, Dec 3, 2014 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [iris] iris DIGEST V1 #380We recently discussed that and that won't work. Iris also need light while they are chilling so unless you can chill and keep them lit they will likely rot in storage. Iris need to root into the soil to keep them moist and so that when they bloom they don't fall over. They are stems, not bulbs which have a special chartacteristic to be able to go completely dormant. Iris don't truly go dormant, except perhaps the bulbous ones like Xiphiums and some of the Aril types. When we are talking about dormancy in Iris we are describing a period of no growth but there are still leaves visible.
 Â-----Original Message----- From: "D. George" <23bd445d1@rewrite.hort.net> Sent: Dec 3, 2014 6:45 PM To: "iris@hort.net" , "iris-digest@hort.net" Subject: Re: [iris] iris DIGEST V1 #380It seems to be impossible to unsubscribe to this group so I'll just ask a ? and see if anyone can advise me. I planted bearded iris bulbs last spring and they all put out leaves but no flowers. I'm wondering if it would help to dig them up as someone here in my area suggested- and keep them in the fridge for a couple of months. Do they need that cold period in order to set flowers? I hope someone is familiar with south Fla's zone 10a growing habitsÂDG
On Wednesday, December 3, 2014 12:52 PM, iris DIGEST wrote:iris DIGESTÂ Â Â Â Wednesday, December 3 2014Â Â Â Â Volume 01 : Number 380
In this issue:     RE: [iris] Re: HYB: rebloom breeding ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 15:13:32 -0500 From: Chuck Chapman Subject: RE: [iris] Re: HYB: rebloom breeding If it was a PV (preferential vernalization ) type it would rebloom and perhaps continue for next year according to how well it was growing. Then stop. If a fall cyclic that didn't have time, then once and stop. Chuck Chapman - -----Original Message----- From: Barb Johnson <73d454751@rewrite.hort.net> To: iris-talk Sent: Tue, Dec 2, 2014 2:02 pm Subject: RE: [iris] Re: HYB: rebloom breeding I am curious -- if I were to pot up a rebloomer and take it indoors for the winter, would it rebloom because it stays warm year round?- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------- Barb Johnson b*@hotmail.com Near Springfield, SW Missouri USA  AIS, HIPS, MIS, TBIS, ISO USDA Zone 5b AIS Region 18 (KS & MO) American Iris Society website: http://www.irises.org iris-talk/Mallorn archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/iris-talk/ iris-photos/Mallorn archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/iris-photos/ AIS Checklist Data: http://www.irisregister.com Iris Encyclopedia (Wiki): http://wiki.irises.org/bin/view > To: iris@hort.net > Subject: Re: [iris] Re: HYB: rebloom breeding > Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 12:16:53 -0500 > From: db4f61431@rewrite.hort.net > > Growth of increases indicate that bud set has occurred, so fans would > be mature. > > Linda, I very, very, much doubt that you will get any bloom from > Preferential vernalization rebloomers in your climate, unless it is on > first year plants primed in zone 9 garden. The range of growth time > after rebloom will be in a very narrow range, selected by millions of > years of evolution. Breeding can make changes on length of growth > time, but it would need a very systematic approach and you would need > a zone 9 garden to work on it. Might be able to change it by a week, > perhaps two, but not much more then that. Evolution has very carefully > selected a limited range. The early ones will have been eliminated from > gene pool by death. So will the later ones. Genes will have been > eliminated. So only way to get a change that would be useful to you > would be by a mutation. Then you would need a means to be able to > identify that this has happened. And it would likely need two > mutations to line up. the one producing signal and the other one > responding to it. And if they are recessive, how will you find them? > > Also consider that the plants with PV evolved in an environment with > winters seldom going below freezing. So will be strongly associated > with tender genes as far as cold weather is concerned. > > I did try Belvi Queen several times. Didn't thrive here. > > Chuck Chapman > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda Mann <101l@rewrite.hort.net> > To: iris <iris@hort.net> > Sent: Tue, Dec 2, 2014 10:37 am > Subject: Re: [iris] Re: HYB: rebloom breeding > > Thanks again, Chuck. > > Could you elaborate on this a bit more (again)? Is the presence of > baby > fans starting a good indicator of mother fan maturity? I might have > enough energy to note that ;-) Are there other ways to tell whether or > not a fan is mature? > > On 12/1/2014 7:52 PM, Chuck Chapman wrote: > > observe maturity of fans . > > Thanks for joining in, Francelle. Good to be reminded that rebloom > requirements (genetic and environment) vary a lot for different > breeders. The three of us (you, me, and Chuck) pretty much cover the > range of challenging climates - hot dry, erratic hot wet, and cold > short > growing season. > > Like you, I have some different options for getting rebloom because > unlike Chuck, I do have a long growing season. So some of the > preferential/CA rebloomer genes can give me additional (re)bloom, <if> > I > can combine those genes with the fastest maturing genes and ones that > can continue rapid maturity in humidity and heat. > > I haven't tried hard to work with your Belvi Queen seed babies yet, but > hope to have something suitable to mix with them this coming year. > Down > to 2 of the strongest growing survivors. I've put pollen on them, but > it's been a low priority up till now, so haven't really worked at it, > and no luck so far. Let me know if you'd like starts. > > Chuck, have you grown Belvi Queen? It's been the most > reliable/persistent summer bloomer here, not fertile for me either way > so far. Not as weak a grower as Tea Leaves, and comes from GP Brown & > Gibson breeding, so should have at least a chance at rebloom for you. > > Linda Mann zone 7, back to balmy spring weather again, lows in the mid > to upper 40s, highs upper 50s to low 60s. Grow newly planted irises, > grow. ;-) > > > > > > > > > >     Â Â ------------------------------ End of iris DIGEST V1 #380 ************************** --------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE IRIS-DIGEST---------------------------------------------------------------------To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with themessage text UNSUBSCRIBE IRIS
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