Re: OT-CHAT: Iris fragrance

From: hipsource@aol.com

In a message dated 2/25/00 11:03:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, hagg@alaska.net 
writes:

<< My favorite fragrance is "Tiffany" which is described as a luxurious 
floral bouquet of Damascena Rose, Indian Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Fleur d'Orange 
and IRIS (caps mine).I cannot detect any of the above scents separately - 
they blend and none seem to predominate. I've never smelled a fragrant iris, 
so don't know what note it adds to this perfume.....How about you, Anner? You 
have an excellent way with colors - does that extend to fragrances? 

Actually, it does somewhat. 

Believing as I do that the great writer Lawrence Durrell was correct when he 
said that "every sense contains an art," I've always been extremely 
interested in perfumery. I have a strong memory for fragrance, and am proud 
to say one of my summer jobs as an undergraduate was to sell Guerlain 
perfumes. Lovely stuff.

When I hear the term iris in relation to perfumery I associate it not with 
the iris blooms but with orris root, which is made from the dried and cured 
rhizomes of any of several bearded irises, but most often I. pallida. This 
has traditionally been used as a fixatif for other essences, that is, it 
helps ensure the longevity of the fragrance of other ingredients, but it also 
has a fragrance itself which develops after drying and storage. Clarence 
offered an interesting receipe for prepared orris once on the list and you 
may wish to check the archives for this. If I am correct nose-wise in 
identifying the role of iris in some classic fragrances, I would describe 
that note as soft, enfolding rather than ambient, and somewhat powdery, a 
fragrance in a minor rather than a major key, like sandlewood, a grey chiffon 
sort of fragrance, nothing sharp or frisky about it. In any case, it does not 
equate to any of the fragrances of iris blooms themselves and as far as I am 
aware they are not used in perfumery. 

As I recall L'Heure Bleu and Je Reviens are supposed to be heavy on iris. 
Next time you are at a good perfume counter check them out and see if any 
aspect of them smells familiar. I'd also say check the neighborhood herbalist 
for orris root, but frankly the stuff I've sniffed at the local one doesn't 
have much kick left to it.   

Anner Whitehead
HIPSource@aol.com



 



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