Re: Digest Number 1406
- To: i*@yahoogroups.com
- Subject: Re: [iris-talk] Digest Number 1406
- From: P* W*
- Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 06:16:03 -0800
- References: <982133810.2767.56322.l9@yahoogroups.com>
I will reply to the iris rot from WA state iris. I live in WA state but on the east side of the Cascade Mountains where the soil is sandy and tends to be alkaline. I can not grow iris from the coast of WA without drying the rhizomes for a while prior to planting. The rhizomes come to me beautiful and plump. I let them dry in the open where breezes and partial sun can reach them for about 5 days prior to planting. Coastal California grown iris
must receive the same treatment here. I believe the moisture stored in the rhizomes has to be reduced at least 30% to be able to grow well here. I am in USDA zone 5 with hot, dry summers and cold and generally dry winters. Iris from the area east of the Cascade Mts. grow well without any treatment at all. Lorraine Miller of Quincy, WA
is in the same USDA zone with the same climate as mine and I have heard of no problems with her iris rotting.
I have been referring to TB iris and Arilbreds. I have also been referring to the Coastal areas of all western states. The inland areas do not pose the rot problem for me.
Has anyone else tried the drying out method to avoid iris rot problems in new acquisitions from humid areas?
Patti
Central WA state.
iris-talk@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>
> There are 25 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. CULT: Dial Antiseptic Soap for Rot
> From: "wmoores" <wmoores@watervalley.net>
> 2. Re: CULT: Dial Antiseptic Soap for Rot
> From: neilm@charter.net
> 3. CULT: Dawn for Dishes and Rot
> From: "wmoores" <wmoores@watervalley.net>
> 4. Re: CULT: Dial Antiseptic Soap for Rot
> From: Laurie <lfandjg@yahoo.com>
> 5. Cult: acclimation rot
> From: gardenhous@aol.com
> 6. Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
> From: Arnold Koekkoek <koekkoek@mtcnet.net>
> 7. Re:Cult soap for rot
> From: gardenhous@aol.com
> 8. Re: CULT: Dial Antiseptic Soap for Rot
> From: Laurie <lfandjg@yahoo.com>
> 9. Re: Cult: acclimation rot
> From: "wmoores" <wmoores@watervalley.net>
> 10. Re: CULT: Triclosan and bleach
> From: Laurie <lfandjg@yahoo.com>
> 11. another test
> From: Jake Anyhow <fellow05@yahoo.com>
> 12. Re: Cult: acclimation rot
> From: John Jones <jijones@ix.netcom.com>
> 13. Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
> From: "Hotmail" <janclarx@hotmail.com>
> 14. Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
> From: John Jones <jijones@ix.netcom.com>
> 15. Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
> From: "Mike Greenfield" <redear@infinet.com>
> 16. RE: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
> From: John Reeds <jreeds@microsensors.com>
> 17. Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
> From: arilbredbreeder@cs.com
> 18. Cult: Forcing
> From: "wmoores" <wmoores@watervalley.net>
> 19. CULT: An Alternative to Undiluted Clorox
> From: neilm@charter.net
> 20. Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
> From: gardenhous@aol.com
> 21. Re: CULT: An Alternative to Undiluted Clorox
> From: arilbredbreeder@cs.com
> 22. Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
> From: "MARVIN EDWARDS" <fjmjedwards@worldnet.att.net>
> 23. Re: Cult: acclimation rot
> From: "MARVIN EDWARDS" <fjmjedwards@worldnet.att.net>
> 24. CULT: starting rz's off in pots in Summer
> From: "Hotmail" <janclarx@hotmail.com>
> 25. Re: CULT: starting rz's off in pots in Summer
> From: arilbredbreeder@cs.com
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 06:48:42 -0600
> From: "wmoores" <wmoores@watervalley.net>
> Subject: CULT: Dial Antiseptic Soap for Rot
>
>
> >
> > If anybody knows if it contains triclosan, let me know because I have an
> > immediate use for it.
> >
> > Chris from the land of ice and wind
> > Blainville Quebec Canada
> >
> I checked the labels of DIAL Antiseptic Soap we have on hand at
> work, and the 'rot ingredient' was not listed on the contents. This
> supply was purchased in October, and I am wondering if some bottles
> have it and others don't. What we have are pump bottles with a clear
> liquid? Is that the product yawl are talking about? And, it, indeed,
> is DIAL.. Maybe, I have the decaf type. Will look at Wal*Mart
> today.
>
> Walter Moores
> Enid Lake, MS USA 7/8
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:34:51 -0000
> From: neilm@charter.net
> Subject: Re: CULT: Dial Antiseptic Soap for Rot
>
> --- In iris-talk@y..., "wmoores" <wmoores@w...> wrote:
> > >
> > I checked the labels of DIAL Antiseptic Soap we have on hand at
> > work, and the 'rot ingredient' was not listed on the contents.
> This supply was purchased in October, and I am wondering if some
> bottles have it and others don't. What we have are pump bottles with
> a clear liquid? Is that the product yawl are talking about? And, it,
> indeed, is DIAL.. Maybe, I have the decaf type."
>
> Walt, I have in front of me a "New!" product from Dial called "Dial
> Antibacterial Hand Sanitizer" that is a gel with alcohol and nary a
> bit of Triclosan. I don't think it is the same product Laurie et al.
> are talking about.
>
> The recent rash of FDA and other agencies removal of various products
> from retail distribution may have something to do with the "New!" bit
> of business, especially if Triclosan were a chlorinated product.
> Wouldn't surprise me.
>
> I had a couple brand new, rather costly, cv's that came from the west
> coast and promptly started to turn to mush. I used the sharp spoon
> and Chlorox treatment and saved them---but didn't take time to dilute
> the Chrolox a bit. A tsp. or so went on the cleaned rhiz. straight.
> They new ones lived, but it was iffy for a while. They may have been
> poisoned by the treatment, but the certainly did not continue to rot.
>
> Neil Mogensen
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:55:29 -0600
> From: "wmoores" <wmoores@watervalley.net>
> Subject: CULT: Dawn for Dishes and Rot
>
> I just came from the kitchen where I had washed the breakfast dishes.
> Looking at the bottle of peach flavored Dawn Antibacterial
> Dishwashing Liquid, I read as the first active ingredient Triclosan!
>
> So, this ingredient may be in other soaps, too.
>
> I am wondering about the hoopla about Triclosan and its miraculous
> rot-curing feature. Until it is tested in more gardens, including my
> own, I am still skeptical. Maybe, I'll eat crow later.
>
> Walter Moores
> Enid Lake, MS USA 7/8
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 01 08:58:40 -0000
> From: Laurie <lfandjg@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: CULT: Dial Antiseptic Soap for Rot
>
> > I checked the labels of DIAL Antiseptic Soap we have on hand at
> >work, and the 'rot ingredient' was not listed on the contents. This
> >supply was purchased in October, and I am wondering if some bottles
> >have it and others don't. What we have are pump bottles with a clear
> >liquid? Is that the product yawl are talking about? And, it, indeed,
> >is DIAL.. Maybe, I have the decaf type. Will look at Wal*Mart
> >today.
>
> The product Don and Ginny Spoon mention in their article on page 38 of
> the Jan '01 AIS Bulletin is Dial Antibacterial liquid hand soap with
> Triclosan. They don't mention whether or not Triclosan is actually
> identified on the product label, but I assumed it is. Perhaps Dial
> Antiseptic is formulated differently than Dial Antibacterial. Pat in
> Dallas also mentioned having seen Triclosan listed as an ingredient in
> Softsoap Antibacterial.
>
> Laurie
>
> --------------------------
> laurief@paulbunyan.net
> http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Valley/1633
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:05:39 EST
> From: gardenhous@aol.com
> Subject: Cult: acclimation rot
>
> No one responded o my comment about washington state iris rotting / and or
> not blooming vs california rzs that seem to acclimate much better to my soil
> type and weather and bloom first year. Does anyone besides me notice this
> difference?
> We have had a mild winter here in Massachusetts with most days in the 40s and
> nights freezing in the 20s. Finally got snow cover in mid January to insulate
> them babies. AM afraid what the spring will bring.
>
> Doreen F. McCabe
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 09:16:06 -0600
> From: Arnold Koekkoek <koekkoek@mtcnet.net>
> Subject: Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> Neil: I doubt if the undiluted bleach will hurt. I have used the same thing quite often, and it only seems to hurt the rot organism, not the iris rhizome. As we always say, iris are tough!
> Arnold
>
> Arnold & Carol Koekkoek
> 38 7th Street, NE
> Sioux Center, IA 51250
> e-mail koekkoek@mtcnet.net
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:14:45 EST
> From: gardenhous@aol.com
> Subject: Re:Cult soap for rot
>
> I asked our microbiologist at the hospital i work at about the soap in
> general being antibacterial. ( For a simple experiment leave a goop of soap
> on the counter and one of sphegetti sauce and see which one attracts visible
> molds.) anyway he said he thinks soap is mostly antibacterial ( without a
> growth medium to support the bacteria) however he does think certain molds
> can grow in it. Now there is the problem is our rot bacterial or fungal or we
> have the both. SO we need a better authority. As an RN we wash constantly
> but it also is the mechanical action of friction and running water that aids.
>
> Certain substances such as soap and alchol will, cause cell wall
> lysis(death) by effectivlely bursting or deteriortating the immediate cells.
>
> Doreen F. McCabe
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 01 09:57:59 -0000
> From: Laurie <lfandjg@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: CULT: Dial Antiseptic Soap for Rot
>
> Well, well, well! I knew this Y2K stuff would come in handy sooner or
> later. LOL! Last year I stocked up on some essential items, several of
> which persist in my basement. Among the leftovers are two 96 oz bottles
> of Ultra Palmolive Concentrated Dishwashing Liquid Antibacterial Hand
> Soap with the active ingredient Triclosan! Looks like I've got more than
> enough for my pre-emptive strike against bacterial soft rot this spring.
> I do hope this stuff turns out to be as effective as has been reported.
> I've only had limited success with the scrape & Comet routine or with the
> bleach solution soak routine, so I'm more than happy to test this
> potential remedy in my garden.
>
> Laurie
> zone 3b-northern MN
> wondering if spring will actually ever hit the northland this year
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:34:19 -0600
> From: "wmoores" <wmoores@watervalley.net>
> Subject: Re: Cult: acclimation rot
>
> On 13 Feb 01, at 10:05, gardenhous@aol.com wrote:
>
> > No one responded o my comment about washington state iris rotting / and or
> > not blooming vs california rzs that seem to acclimate much better to my
> > soil type and weather and bloom first year. Does anyone besides me notice
> > this difference?
> >
> > Doreen F. McCabe
> >
>
> It's California irises that are 'forced' that are more rot-prone
> here. I'm not so sure that many rhizomes are 'forced' as much as they
> used to be. Most growers are practicing crop rotation. But, if you
> will give all incoming rhizomes the 10% bleach bath, you will prevent
> 99% of rot in newly-set or potted plants.
>
> I haven't gotten any Washington state irises lately, but Oregon is
> close enough, and they fare very well for me.
>
> I also think some line breeding has produced weak growers which are
> likely to rot.
>
> Walter Moores
> Enid Lake, MS USA 7/8 (Ice Follies are dancing in the breeze when
> they are not nodding from all the rain)
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 01 11:11:27 -0000
> From: Laurie <lfandjg@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: CULT: Triclosan and bleach
>
> A word of caution about using a soap product containing Triclosan:
>
> Upon more thorough reading, I discovered the following printed on the
> back of my bottle of Ultra Palmolive Concentrated Dishwashing Liquid
> Antibacterial Hand Soap, "CAUTION: DO NOT USE WITH CHLORINE BLEACH to
> avoid irritating fumes."
>
> I don't know which of the ingredients in this particular soap is
> responsible for interacting with bleach in this manner, but if you intend
> to try a Triclosan soap as a bacterial soft rot treatment on a rz that
> has been recently treated with bleach or a bleach product such as Comet,
> do take care. Read your labels thoroughly and do not mix chemicals!
>
> Laurie
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 11:39:57 -0800 (PST)
> From: Jake Anyhow <fellow05@yahoo.com>
> Subject: another test
>
> test
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 11:52:45 -0800
> From: John Jones <jijones@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: Cult: acclimation rot
>
> wmoores wrote:
>
> > It's California irises that are 'forced' that are more rot-prone
> > here.
>
> Walta',
>
> Can you tell me what you mean by "forced" in this context?
>
> Thx
>
> John
> ________________________________________________
> John I Jones
> Director, Marketing
> Viaquo Corporation
> 2460 N. First Street, Suite 280
> San Jose, California 95131
> Email jijones@viaquo.com
> Phone 408.850.8400, Fax 408.850.8401
> Pager 800.333.5952
> Mobile 510.693.4400
> HTTP://www.viaquo.com
> ________________________________________________
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 08:43:43 +1100
> From: "Hotmail" <janclarx@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> Neil: I doubt if the undiluted bleach will hurt. I have used the same thing quite often, and it only seems to hurt the rot organism, not the iris rhizome. As we always say, iris are tough!
> Arnold
>
> I once made the mistake of leaving rhizomes a little too long in diluted (very diluted) chlorine bleach. I used about a 1/2 cup full, to about 1/8 filled laundry tub, with the rz's sitting upright. The idea being to clean off any bacteria before planting. I left them overnight by mistake.
> Guess what? .... it bleached them. They were quite pale after the experience. I wouldn't be keen to use undiluted bleach, except in direct contact with the affected part.
> Cheers, Jan Clark.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:42:32 -0800
> From: John Jones <jijones@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> Hotmail wrote:
> > I once made the mistake of leaving rhizomes a little too long in diluted (very diluted) chlorine bleach. I used about a 1/2 cup full, to about 1/8 filled laundry tub, with the rz's sitting upright. The idea being to clean off any bacteria before planting. I left them overnight by mistake.
> > Guess what? .... it bleached them. They were quite pale after the experience. I wouldn't be keen to use undiluted bleach, except in direct contact with the affected part.
>
> The question is, did they live and prosper? Perhaps the submersion in
> water had some affect too. If you were to pour undiluted bleach on a
> rotting rz, the fact that most of it runs off into the dirt probably
> mitigates any negative impact on the rz. I have used it occasionally an
> noticed not ill effects.
>
> Something no one has mentioned is the new formulation that is appearing
> here in the US. Clorox Ultra, and most of the knock offs, is a new
> formulation with less hypoclorite (or whatever the active ingredient
> was) and some new stuff of unknown toxicity to irises.
>
> Anyone know anything about this?
>
> John
> ________________________________________________
> John I Jones
> Director, Marketing
> Viaquo Corporation
> 2460 N. First Street, Suite 280
> San Jose, California 95131
> Email jijones@viaquo.com
> Phone 408.850.8400, Fax 408.850.8401
> Pager 800.333.5952
> Mobile 510.693.4400
> HTTP://www.viaquo.com
> ________________________________________________
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 16:51:33 -0500
> From: "Mike Greenfield" <redear@infinet.com>
> Subject: Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hotmail" <janclarx@hotmail.com>
> To: <iris-talk@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 4:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [iris-talk] Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> >
> >
> > Neil: I doubt if the undiluted bleach will hurt. I have used the same
> thing quite often, and it only seems to hurt the rot organism, not the iris
> rhizome. As we always say, iris are tough!
> > Arnold
> >
> >
> > I once made the mistake of leaving rhizomes a little too long in diluted
> (very diluted) chlorine bleach. I used about a 1/2 cup full, to about 1/8
> filled laundry tub, with the rz's sitting upright. The idea being to clean
> off any bacteria before planting. I left them overnight by mistake.
> > Guess what? .... it bleached them. They were quite pale after the
> experience. I wouldn't be keen to use undiluted bleach, except in direct
> contact with the affected part.
> > Cheers, Jan Clark.
>
> I did the samething, they were yellow no green at all.
>
> They grew fine. This was done to DUSKY CHALLENGER.
>
> Mike Greenfield
> redear@infinet.com
> SW Ohio Zone 5b
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:49:20 -0800
> From: John Reeds <jreeds@microsensors.com>
> Subject: RE: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> I have been told to use bleach on rot (scoop out all the bad stuff, and
> splash a little on the raw surface). I used to do it when I didn't want to
> dig a clump when a couple of rhizomes were suffering. Never again! I lost
> a number of clumps which lost all vigor and pretty much all their roots;
> they just faded away. The rot was about the only thing that kept spreading.
>
> I tried a different approach. Most organisms will not thrive except within
> a specific enviromnent. PH can be critical. After thoroughly scooping out
> the yuck, I use my fingertip to rub in a little powdered cement mix or lime
> to cauterize, sterilize, and seal the wound. Then I wash my finger so I
> won't lose too much skin. Works great for me! Of course, I guess this
> wouldn't be a good idea for japanese iris, but I can't grow those anyway.
>
> John Reeds in soggy southern California
> jreeds@microsensors.com
>
> > Neil: I doubt if the undiluted bleach will hurt. I have used the same
> > thing quite often, and it only seems to hurt the rot organism, not the
> > iris rhizome. As we always say, iris are tough!
> > Arnold
> >
> >
> > I once made the mistake of leaving rhizomes a little too long in diluted
> > (very diluted) chlorine bleach. I used about a 1/2 cup full, to about 1/8
> > filled laundry tub, with the rz's sitting upright. The idea being to
> > clean off any bacteria before planting. I left them overnight by mistake.
> > Guess what? .... it bleached them. They were quite pale after the
> > experience. I wouldn't be keen to use undiluted bleach, except in direct
> > contact with the affected part.
> > Cheers, Jan Clark.
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:14:24 EST
> From: arilbredbreeder@cs.com
> Subject: Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> In a message dated 2/13/01 2:51:33 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> jreeds@microsensors.com writes:
>
> <<
> I have been told to use bleach on rot (scoop out all the bad stuff, and
> splash a little on the raw surface). I used to do it when I didn't want to
> dig a clump when a couple of rhizomes were suffering. Never again! I lost
> a number of clumps which lost all vigor and pretty much all their roots;
> they just faded away. The rot was about the only thing that kept spreading.
>
> I tried a different approach. Most organisms will not thrive except within
> a specific enviromnent. PH can be critical. After thoroughly scooping out
> the yuck, I use my fingertip to rub in a little powdered cement mix or lime
> to cauterize, sterilize, and seal the wound. Then I wash my finger so I
> won't lose too much skin. Works great for me! Of course, I guess this
> wouldn't be a good idea for japanese iris, but I can't grow those anyway.
> >>
>
> This would explain why the undiluted Chlorox works so well in southern NM.
> After the treated rhizome dries out, I cover it with native sand -- which has
> a naturally high pH.
>
> Sharon McAllister
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 18
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:28:33 -0600
> From: "wmoores" <wmoores@watervalley.net>
> Subject: Cult: Forcing
>
> On 13 Feb 01, at 11:52, John Jones wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > wmoores wrote:
> >
> > > It's California irises that are 'forced' that are more rot-prone
> > > here.
> >
> > Walta',
> >
> > Can you tell me what you mean by "forced" in this context?
> >
> > Thx
> >
>
> Dowfuming the soil, planting on high ridges, and flooding the canals
> in between the ridges.....that was called 'forcing.' The idea was to
> get big rhizomes with lots of increase. When dug the rhizomes were
> huge and full of water and had to be dried out for several weeks to a
> month before planting in hotter parts of the country. I don't think
> anybody does this anymore. I saw this done once in Texas and it was a
> disaster. Solarization and crop rotation seem to be preferred now.
>
> Walter Moores
> Enid Lake, MS USA 7/8
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 19
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:37:04 -0000
> From: neilm@charter.net
> Subject: CULT: An Alternative to Undiluted Clorox
>
> This past summer the bit of soft rot that showed up during our
> drought fortunately did so in plants that had some hot sun exposure
> during the day. Instead of the chlorox treatment, I just scooped
> away top soil so the upper surface of the rhizome was well exposed,
> cleaned up all accumulated leaves, etc., then scraped out the rot,
> washed the remainder and let the remaining surface dry in the sun.
> Most of the rot stopped. One plant required a second minute of
> attention a few days later. The sun did not have the possibly
> negative effects of root burn, etc., that I had suspected from the
> tsp. of undiluted Chlorox treatment the summer before. I lost none
> of the clumps, and only one fan's growing tip.
>
> Neil Mogensen western NC
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 20
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:10:57 EST
> From: gardenhous@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> In a message dated 2/13/01 4:45:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jijones@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> << Clorox Ultra, and most of the knock offs, is a new >>
> yes i used it and it was no different on rz than the old regular. No ill
> effects at all. it was allthe rain we got this summer that did me in.
>
> Doreen F. McCabe
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 21
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:20:11 EST
> From: arilbredbreeder@cs.com
> Subject: Re: CULT: An Alternative to Undiluted Clorox
>
> In a message dated 2/13/01 4:37:47 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> neilm@charter.net writes:
>
> << This past summer the bit of soft rot that showed up during our
> drought fortunately did so in plants that had some hot sun exposure
> during the day. Instead of the chlorox treatment, I just scooped
> away top soil so the upper surface of the rhizome was well exposed,
> cleaned up all accumulated leaves, etc., then scraped out the rot,
> washed the remainder and let the remaining surface dry in the sun.
> Most of the rot stopped. >>
>
> Another excellent example of climatic differences. Here, a rhizome exposed
> to the sun quickly takes on the consistency of a baked potato. Not exactly
> conducive to survival...
>
> Sharon McAllister
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 22
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:35:03 -0700
> From: "MARVIN EDWARDS" <fjmjedwards@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> I'll bet those bleached rhizomes grew well anyway. I often do that and they don't notice. I have even received whitened rhizomes from growers, and I've just been thankful that they were disinfected.
> Francelle Edwards sunny AZ where it's raining tonight.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hotmail
> To: iris-talk@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 2:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [iris-talk] Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox
>
> Neil: I doubt if the undiluted bleach will hurt. I have used the same thing quite often, and it only seems to hurt the rot organism, not the iris rhizome. As we always say, iris are tough!
> Arnold
>
> I once made the mistake of leaving rhizomes a little too long in diluted (very diluted) chlorine bleach. I used about a 1/2 cup full, to about 1/8 filled laundry tub, with the rz's sitting upright. The idea being to clean off any bacteria before planting. I left them overnight by mistake.
> Guess what? .... it bleached them. They were quite pale after the experience. I wouldn't be keen to use undiluted bleach, except in direct contact with the affected part.
> Cheers, Jan Clark.
>
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> Message: 23
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:54:13 -0700
> From: "MARVIN EDWARDS" <fjmjedwards@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: Cult: acclimation rot
>
> In this hot climate I've had more of my share of rot, particularly last fall. There is wide variation in the susceptibility to it. Celebration Song and Supreme Sultan seem to be the worst. I have never had rot in Jesse's Song, Lady Friend, Skating Party, Mountain Violet, Soul Sister, Anna Belle Babson, Mary Frances or City Lights. It might be interesting to create a list of irises that just don't rot.
> Francelle Edwards Glendale, AZ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: wmoores
> To: iris-talk@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [iris-talk] Cult: acclimation rot
>
> On 13 Feb 01, at 10:05, gardenhous@aol.com wrote:
>
> > No one responded o my comment about washington state iris rotting / and or
> > not blooming vs california rzs that seem to acclimate much better to my
> > soil type and weather and bloom first year. Does anyone besides me notice
> > this difference?
> >
> > Doreen F. McCabe
> >
>
> It's California irises that are 'forced' that are more rot-prone
> here. I'm not so sure that many rhizomes are 'forced' as much as they
> used to be. Most growers are practicing crop rotation. But, if you
> will give all incoming rhizomes the 10% bleach bath, you will prevent
> 99% of rot in newly-set or potted plants.
>
> I haven't gotten any Washington state irises lately, but Oregon is
> close enough, and they fare very well for me.
>
> I also think some line breeding has produced weak growers which are
> likely to rot.
>
> Walter Moores
> Enid Lake, MS USA 7/8 (Ice Follies are dancing in the breeze when
> they are not nodding from all the rain)
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> Message: 24
> Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 17:39:49 +1100
> From: "Hotmail" <janclarx@hotmail.com>
> Subject: CULT: starting rz's off in pots in Summer
>
> Last year was the worst year for losses among pots of newly acquired rhizomes. If I gave them water - they rotted. If I didn't they shrivelled up and died in the intense heat.
> This year, I decided to use light shade cloth over my pots. I have watered them only once every 10 days or so, and there have been no losses. All plants look healthy, and are starting to show new leaves and roots. I think I got the idea from Sharon McAllister, who described using shade cloth over Arilbred seedlings. That piece of cheap shadecloth and six star pickets were a very worth while investment. Once the weather cools, I will remove it.
>
> Cheers, Jan Clark, Australia, zone 9, and feeling like Autumn.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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> Message: 25
> Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 01:56:45 EST
> From: arilbredbreeder@cs.com
> Subject: Re: CULT: starting rz's off in pots in Summer
>
> In a message dated 2/13/01 11:29:28 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> janclarx@hotmail.com writes:
>
> << I think I got the idea from Sharon McAllister, who described using shade
> cloth over Arilbred seedlings. That piece of cheap shadecloth and six star
> pickets were a very worth while investment. Once the weather cools, I will
> remove it. >>
>
> Perhaps -- but my use of shadecloth started with TBs. They need it even more
> than the babies. AB seedlings can make it without shadecloth after their
> first summer but here TBs need it every year.
>
> Sharon McAllister
>
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