Iris borer

Linda M:

 I kept your list of "rot" survivors.  My problem is identifying what is
causing my iris problems, and it doesn't really seem to be rot, except as to
what happens with leaf spot.  Maybe we can list survivor's, period.
 The ones that do best for me are solid Blues and Purples, and yellows. Once I
get into combinations of colors, or pastels or whites, they don't seem so
hardy.  I started buying old Dyke's medalists, thinking these * *must* be
hardy, but some I never saw bloom.  I check the rhizomes and very rarely see
rot, but some rhizomes just up and disappear and I know of nothing that eats
them.

 We don't have Iris Borer here west of the Cascades, maybe not west of the
Rockies, I don't know.

 So I have tons of Dusky Challenger, Praise the Lord, Aztec Sun, Breakers,
Carolina Gold, Flaming Victory, Pledge Allegiance,  Master Touch, Royal
Intrigue and Southland Grape plus some reds including Sultan's Palace,
Vitafire, Lady Friend and Fort Apache.
 -----
 Linda M.

 I've never mulched, but articles I read last year indicated it might prevent
spores for leaf spot being splashed up by rain.  I never feed high nitrogen, I
garden on a hillside, except on three terraces I kept just for iris, where
they do better than the hillside.  They don't seem to reproduce that well on a
hillside, don't know why.  They get full sun. I leave the rhizomes exposed in
the summer to "bake in the sun" (it rarely gets very warm here).  My biggest
problems are slugs and weeds and wet winters and springs.  When I remember to
fertilize, I used Kelp Meal, Bone Meal, and Superphosphate.  Does anyone
recommend an "Iris Fertilizer"?  I know Cooley's sells their own brand.
 ----
 The only supplier of Pacific Coast Iris I know are Aitken's Salmon Creek
Garden; 608 NW 119th Street, Vancouver, WA 98685 (206) 573-4472.  I've bought
from them every year for 6 years and love their prices, their variety and
their help over the phone and the healthy plants.  I only hope they were not
flooded this year.

 Janis Whitcomb, Auburn, WA
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