Re: HYB:seed:mulch (was weather)

In a message dated 1/10/2006 10:25:24 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
flatnflashy@yahoo.com writes:

<<Must be the difference between the inside and outside  methods.>>
Christian, in twenty years I've never seen a sprouted seed lying on top of  a 
pot.  I've been told (for what it's worth) that a seed needs to be  
approximately 3/4 of an inch below the surface to sprout.  Any further down  and it 
won't sprout.  Any less and it won't sprout.  Please note the  word approximately 
. . . my guess is that the range is 1/2 to 1 inch, but I've  never measured.  
Three times the diameter of the seed?  But where do  you measure a three 
sided seed?  
 
When I don't have a mulch on the pots, I check them regularly  and push down 
any seed that have surfaced during a pounding rain or  freeze and thaw.   
 
I have a theory that this could be one of the primary reasons we  get a good 
flush of 2nd year sprouts.  As seedlings are lifted from the  pots for 
transplant the remaining seed are relocated.  Some people filter  their soil, pull 
out the seed, and replant.  That's too much like work to  me . . . I don't have 
the patience for it.  Or the time.  
 
In the case of seed planted in the ground, they were too deep the  first year 
and the soil settled, or too shallow and the seed settled.  At  one time I 
thought it was access to light, but it's probably  a combination.    
 
Combine this possibility with the inhibitor factor/factors and you (I) get  a 
lot of 2nd year sprouts.  And I try to be quite careful in placing my  seed 
all at the same level within the pot, but it still happens.  
 
In my gardens  . . . I've had seed start sprouting the end of  February, but 
most of the time they start around April 1.  But without fail  a given cross 
finishes sprouting within a month of the first  sprout. Sometimes they all pop 
up the first week, but often it takes the  full month for all to appear.  I 
keep notes of the first sprouts.  Not  as busy at that time.  I wish I could 
keep track of this in relationship to  bloom season, but by the time twenty or so 
seedlings are full grown, I can't  tell which one was first!  
 
Seed are programmed to respond to certain factors in nature, temperature,  
length of days, moisture, etc.  The soaking and refrigeration  breaks the code.  
   
 
Mother Nature isn't always perfect, and often frustrates, but she does a  
better job than I would do.  Without question, I'd manage to ruin my  seed!  She 
is a much better keeper of the seed. I have a tendency  to think "if a little 
is good" a lot would be better!  Or I'd just forget  them all together. <VBG> 
 
I'm quite comfortable with my system.  But I will be checking  germination 
this year.  Pots mulched, and shaded mornings during  the winter.  Then moved to 
near full sun about March 15 (warm spell).   Watered daily.  Watched too 
much!  Can't wait!!
 
 

Betty W. in  South-central KY Zone 6
Bridge In Time Iris Garden@website:
_www.thegardensite.com/irises/bridgeintime/_ 
(http://www.thegardensite.com/irises/bridgeintime/) 
_Reblooming Iris - Home Page_ (http://www.rebloomingiris.com/)  
_iris-photos archives_ (http://www.hort.net/lists/iris-photos/)  
_iris-talk archives_ (http://www.hort.net/lists/iris-talk/)  
_AIS: American Iris Society website_ (http://www.irises.org/)   

---------------------------------------------------------------------
To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the
message text UNSUBSCRIBE IRIS
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index