Re: OT-BIO: Janet T. US Zone 2/ Can Zone 3

Janet: More as I promised.
pH is the easiest horticultural parameter for the home gardener to test for 
themselves. Additionally, pH adjustment the single greatest contributor to 
producing superior plants of any type -- row crop, vegetables, or flowers. 
This happens because soil pH affects the availability of both primary 
nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium) and micro nutrients (sulfur, 
calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, boron, copper, zinc, and molybdenum). At 
pH 5 and below they cannot be taken up in sufficient quantities to meet the 
plants requirements. At pH 8.5 and above the same is true.

Meters accurate enough for garden purposes are available for about $20 in 
many plant catalogs and discount stores. They are quite good. You can easily 
test their accuracy testing a gallon jug of distilled water from the grocery 
store. It should have a pH of 7. Another way to measure pH is with hydreon 
(spelling ?) paper. It comes in small rolls and changes to a specific color 
that is then compared to a color chart. I sometime see it available in better 
garden catalogs. I am currently using a product similar to this called 
BAKER-pHIX from J. T.  Baker Company in New Jersey. This product is 
individual paper strips, color coded with test strips ultimately being 
compared to a color chart.

As a practical matter, pH testing is necessary when you initially prepare a 
bed, after you have amended it to adjust the pH level, and when you see 
plants behaving poorly. It is best to prepare and amend beds well in advance 
of planting in them. At least 2 weeks with more time being better will allow 
the amendment you have used to react with the soil. If you are trying to 
adjust existing beds you can adjust them by top dressing and then deep 
tilling around the plants.

More on nutrients later,

Hope yawl ain't too cold up there. It was 85 degrees here today!

Bill Burleson

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