Re: Re: HYB: seed stratification

The following is the method that we use for germination.  We have recently
gone back to using 1 gallon containers as opposed to peat pots.  The
seedlings were either drying out or had too much trouble breaking through
the peat pots after planting in the ground.  When transplanting the
seedlings from 1 gallon containers to the field we dip the roots and newly
formed rhizome in vitamin B12 to prevent shock.  Hardly ever lose seedlings
after germination, this year i tracked germination rate on a random sample
of seedlings and it came out to 93%.  Must have been an ideal year,
typically we experience between 85% and 90% first year germination.  Hope
this helps with your questions.
Mike Sutton

A HYBRIDIZER'S TREATMENT OF BEARDED IRIS SEEDS
George Sutton


A few years ago we wrote an article for the Region 14 Bulletin about caring
for and planting iris seeds.  Due to increasing interest recently about our
method, we decided to update the information.

Here in Porterville we start collecting seeds in late June as the first pods
turn brown and begin to split.  As we take the seeds out, we put them in
pantyhose legs, knot the hose, tie the cross tag to the pantyhose, then put
in the seeds and tag from the next pod, and so on.  When the pantyhose legs
are full, we hang them in our packing shed to dry.  We make sure that they
have air circulating around them, keeping them from molding.  Mold doesn't
seem to hurt them, but I don't like it.  We are usually finished with
collecting seeds by the first of August.

When all the seeds in the pantyhose have turned blackish brown and are
wrinkled we start the next step.  We place the full pantyhose legs in a
bucket of fresh cold water with a large object such as a rock on top to keep
them submerged.  The water in the bucket is replaced with fresh cold water
every morning for ten days.  Important: rinse thoroughly each day!  After
the ten days we place the wet pantyhose in a black plastic trash sack.
We've tried clear plastic but with poor results.  The sack is then placed in
the freezing compartment of a refrigerator at 28 to 30 degrees for about 6
hours, at which point the plastic sack and seeds should both be stiff and
frosted.  The black plastic sack is then removed to the bottom of the
refrigerator, where the temperature is kept at 36 to 38 degrees until roots
form on the seeds in about 90 to 120 days.  The seeds should be checked
periodically to catch them before the roots get too long, growing into the
stocking fabric.  If this happens the roots are difficult to untangle, as we
found out!

We have tried many methods of planting the rooted seeds and they all seem to
work.  We've tried 1 gallon plastic pots, peat pots, styrofoam grape boxes
and ground beds.  We have now settled on 1-=" x 3cm Jiffy Strips.  They are
easier to handle at planting time plus there is no planting shock to the
seedlings.  An added bonus is that there are fewer weeds. We fill the peat
pots with a mix of 3/4 potting soil and 1/4 perlite.  Since we started using
perlite the damping off has stopped.  The cross tags must remain with the
seeds.  For cross tags we have settled on one inch vinyl mini-blinds, the
porous, not slick, ones.  These have several advantages: they are easy to
cut, they don't cut you, they are cheap, and when you use a black
china-marker to write on them, they are readable for four years.

The seeds are planted one per pot.  Seeds are watered in, then watered
lightly every morning, keeping them damp but not soaking wet.  The first
seedlings pop up in 7 to 10 days.  In three weeks they look like grass.
Most of the crosses have a very high germination rate, usually 90% or
better.

In theory, these seedlings are lined out in March in our area, before it
gets too hot but after any danger of killing frosts.  We try to prepare our
planting beds in late fall, allowing granular fertilizers of 2-16-16 to be
absorbed.  The young irises are planted 12" apart in rows 30" apart.  As we
plant, we staple our vinyl mini-blind tags to =" x 2" x 12" redwood stakes.
Each cross is then given a number which is subsequently logged in a stud
book along with the cross, for example, J-1 (Sky Hooks x Shameless).  Again,
the freshly planted seedlings need to be watered in.  All that is left is to
watch them grow, weed them, and enjoy the first bloom.  Some of the SDBs and
reblooming TBs bloom as soon as six months after planting in the ground, but
most of them will bloom in a year.

Some might say this is a much too involved process; they are probably right.
Yet if the seeds develop, they should be given the best possible chance to
grow.  The whole idea is to have fun and enjoy the whole hybridizing
process.  I can't think of too many things that are more enjoyable than
watching these beauties and even the dogs develop and bloom for the first
time.  Too many things in life are "have-to's":  this is a "want-to!"  Have
fun!




> Chris,   Do you recall more of the particulars of the George  Sutton seed
> stratification and germination methods, like what medium, trays , how long
> in frig. etc.  Thanks Jim Rohrer

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