Re: SIGNA Germination Guide

Henryanner@aol.com wrote:
> 
>> If anyone on this list still has a copy of the instructional guide to species
> seed germination once published by SIGNA and would be willing to send me
> either the original or a copy for generous and heartfelt reimbursement,
> PLEASE be so kind as to contact me. I am intensely interested in the theory
> and practice of seeds.
> 
> Anner Whitehead, Richmond, VA
> Henry Hall  henryanner@aol.com

STEP BY STEP WITH STOUT
Some thoughts about starting iris from seed.

1. First of all make a list in a notebook of all the seeds you have 
received from SIGNA using the numbers assigned in the original list for 
later reference. Put down as much information as you have about each 
item, and leave some space to add more information as you learn it. Look 
up on the list where each item came from as listed on the front page of 
coded donors. (I try to order seeds that were grown where the climate is 
not radically different from mine if there is a choice.

2. Prepare labels for each packet at this time, being careful to use a 
waterproof pen or wax pencil. (My labels are usually pylon, a hard 
plastic with a hole at one end through which I thread a 6 to 8 inch piece 
of single strand telephone wire. But plastic knives will do to write the 
name and numbers on though you'll need separate string or wire for 
fastening together. Rubber bands will NOT suffice.)

3. Most seeds need to be soaked in distilled water for at least an hour 
because they are "over-ripened". This process is simple. I use separate 
containers (like jar lids) for each packet. Lay the label you've just 
made for this item over the lid of soaking seeds so you won't get mixed 
up. Do each this way. (I use the kitchen table for this work.)

4. While the seeds are all soaking, all labelled, mix a quantity of peat 
moss, sand or vermiculite with enough water to dampen but not be soggy. 
Provide yourself with a box of cheap, plain sandwich bags. Now pick up a 
bit of wet moss (or sand or vermiculite) about the size of a walnut and 
make it into a ball which you hold in the palm of your hand. With the 
other hand poke a hole halfway down in the center. Take the seeds from 
your first packet, that have been soaking, and put them in this hole and 
close it up again. This ball with the seeds neatly enclosed in the wet 
moss (sand or vermiculite) is then carefully placed inside a plastic 
sandwich bag in one corner. Now twist the wire on your label around the 
enclosed ball. (If you are using plastic knives you'll obviously have to 
tie each in place with string or wire as rubber bands will deteriorate). 
You have now processed your first package of seed! They can be 
"stratified" in the vegetable crisper of your refrigerator where they can 
safely wait for the next step, either planting outdoors or under lights. 
Continue putting each kind of seed in its own ball of wet moss (or sand 
or vermiculite), labelling correctly, and store them (at least three 
weeks, better two months).

5. Stratification of your seeds may be new to you, but it is important 
even if you intend to plant outdoors when weather permits instead of 
growing under lights. Heat and dryness kill seeds, so why not do the way 
the experts do and your percentage of germination will be higher. The 
seeds that are stratified can remain safely in a vegetable crisper for a 
long time, at least until all danger of frost is past in your area if you 
intend to plant directly in the garden. This is very easy now, for the 
seeds are ready to,start growing right away and your labels are all made 
so you just make your row or rows and distribute your moist seeds, with 
the damp mix they were in, covering with a half inch of fine moss. Allow 
enough space at this stage and you can leave the plants in place until 
they bloom! When you plant outdoors, the most important thing to remember 
(from now on) is to keep seeds and seedlings moist. Some people place a 
plate of glass over the seeds until they sprout. A board would do if you 
remove it as soon as they sprout (at least 8 days).

6. If you can't wait until all danger of frost is past you'll need to 
provide a suitable environment indoors. You do not need a greenhouse. 
Select a sunny window in a room suitable for human occupation (so the 
temperature will be about right) and with the addition of fluorescent 
lights hung over your treasures, you can do fine. You can plant each ball 
containing seeds in a separate 3-4" plastic pot filled 2/3 full with 
either a commercial potting mix or a mix of your own. They do not need 
fertilizer so a mix of half peat moss and half vermiculite will do 
(they're sterile so you won't have trouble with "damp off".) Fit a new 
plastic sandwich bag over the top of the pot, snugly. As plants grow, 
gently increase the head room for growth, never taking the plastic off 
(you water from below). So now each group of seeds has its oen little 
controlled environment. No drying out and no damp-off!

7. In providing adequate light, I have never found just a window sill and 
natural light enough in our climate. but you may be able to do that where 
you live. I use fluorescent lights with reflectors. "Gro-lux" and 
"Agri-gro" are lights especially made for growing plants under lights. I 
start out with the lights 6 to 8" above the seeds, but raise them as 
needed.

8. Always water your pots from underneath (the moss acts like a wick). 
Keep the tops enclosed. If the trays you set your pots in do not have 
grooves for air and drainage, put some marbles or gravel under the pots. 
This drainage tray needs to be set in another tray to protect your table 
or windowseat. I use boot mats for this because they are handy, cheap and 
have a rim around as if made for this purpose! Look for them in K-mart or 
other such store.

9. There is a wide variation in germination time. How cold the room is 
seems to matter, and the type of seed will determine how fast it sprouts, 
arils being probably the slowest. It may happen sometime that you will 
need to keep your seed-pots over another season if you want to get all 
possible plants. If you have kept track of how many seeds you planted you 
will know if they have all germinated.

10. Comments: Actually the depth to plant the seeds varies with the type 
of seed. Most need 1/2" of milled moss over them but versicolor, 
louisianas or pseudacorus, all large seeds, would find this too shallow. 
When transplanting to their outdoor garden row, the roots must be 
accommodated as deep as they have extended with at least a half inch of 
soil over the crown. As they grow they will seek a deeper or shallower 
space. A little dilute fertilizer solution can be given not oftener than 
once a month when first sprouted, then once a week, continuing until well 
established. I use a soluble fertilizer with a low first number.

11. By now you will have read about the types you have in back issues of 
SIGNA and made additional notes in your notebook including what you did 
and how, how much and when, your results and comments for yourself and 
for sharing. It's a great project and and you can be as scientific as 
your nature allows! This is how Mendel started!

12. If your list of iris seeds contains members of the ensata group 
(Japanese) you will need to test your soil to be sure it is acid enough 
for them, as they cannot withstand soils with lime in them. You may need 
to add "Miracid" or other acid fertilizer or soil sulfur when you 
transplant them to their permanent home. Most iris will tolerate a 
neutral soil, though spurias in general like alkalinity, as do most of 
the bearded irises. If you have a wide variety of types you will want to 
find out their different requirements. Once established you'll enjoy them 
all with a new appreciation. (I think every serious gardener should get 
his garden soil tested. The county agricultural agent usually will do 
this free or you can buy a kit (such as Sudbury) and learn to test soil 
yourself.

A few growing tips: cristata have a tendency to grow out of the soil and 
appreciate a handfull of moist moss thrown on them once in a while. Also, 
it's easy to mistake their little stolons (Surface roots) for sticks to 
be cleaned off! On a hot summer day they like a sudden rain, but not the 
Junos. If it's dry, remember to water the cristata. But the Junos hate 
our heavy summer rains when they want to go dormant as in their native 
land. So give them unusually sharp drainage and protection from the 
summer deluge, if you have one. Mine do well under a ginkgo tree which 
leafs out late and shelters them from the later heavy rains while they 
sleep and they always return on schedule in early spring. Air circulation 
is important to ALL iris plants so be sure to keep them well weeded. They 
must be spaced far enough apart for the samr reason. Don't be tempted to 
plant other plants over their roots, either. Good luck and have fun in 
your iris adventure!

Anner:
After all that I hope it is what you wanted!!!

-- 
Paul Richardson, Upper Hutt, New Zealand
pippi@xtra.co.nz
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