Re: Need some help
- To: Multiple recipients of list <i*@rt66.com>
- Subject: Re: Need some help
- From: "* M* C* <c*@brigadoon.com>
- Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 08:48:52 -0700 (MST)
-----Original Message-----
From: The Hiltibidals <dutchman@fgi.net>
To: Multiple recipients of list <iris-l@rt66.com>
Date: Saturday, March 14, 1998 7:30 AM
Subject: Need some help
>
Sharon:
We're in zone 6, although there is quite a difference between KS and ILL.
We too, live on a fringe zone.
There was nothing wrong with your original planting instructions. And the
increase will seek the exposure if the original rhizome is planted too
deep. The problem is that the new growth may not bloom unless it has that
exposure to the sun. So you may not get any bloom for a couple of years.
The sooner that you get your rhizomes in the ground, the better for
establishing new root growth. I use a rooting hormone (availiable at most
nurseries) to help stimulate the rhizome when I initially plant it.
To avoid heave from freezing\thawing, I use a mulch of straw or leaves
applied in very late fall. I take it off in late March. The only problem
with mulch is that it retains moisture which is conducive to rot. When the
temps begin to rise into the low 50's, I begin to pull the mulch away from
the rhizomes to expose it to the sun.
Rye and other grasses tend to compete with the iris for nutrients and hold
in moisture around the rhizome. Air circulation is important to control rot
and leaf spot.
Generally,freezes before the iris are are up too high or before Mar. 21
in this area don't hurt the bloom too much, depending on the temprement of
the variety.
This last freeze did a work on the majority of my iris, but I think that
with the mulch still on and the size of the new growth on the fans, most of
the bloom is still in a state of growht that it wont be effected. I'll keep
my fingers crossed!
Hope this helps.
Jon Marc.
